Encouraging Kid’s Green Thumbs
There is a saying that “green thumbs are not born, they’re grown.” And here at Rick’s we heartily agree! Green thumbs come in all shapes and sizes, and even ages. Today we want to encourage younger green thumbs- kiddos! Kids are naturally attracted to dirt, worms, flowers, bugs, watering cans, seeds, berries and even veggies that are unique. It really is quite easy to get them hooked on becoming gardeners. Some may balk at including kiddos in the garden. What if they mess things up? I counter, adults also mess things up in the garden- often without trying. Let the kids learn, experiment, play and succeed in the garden. If you are a parent, teacher, guardian, devoted auntie, grandparent, or other care giver, these tips will get you started on introducing kids to the wide world of science and beauty of plants.
Gardening is an adventure into math, science and art. Math is used when discussing how far and deep seeds are planted, as well as in the conversation of, “If we have three eaters in our home, how many zucchini plants do we need to plant?” There is no right answer for this conundrum, because you typically end up with too many zucchini in general. But having that conversation with a child allows them to think of the production of one zucchini plant, how to extrapolate how many ways they and other eaters can eat zucchini, and to problem solve with what to do with any extras. Maybe the neighbor next door would like some?
Science takes a look at the immediate needs of a plant; nutrients, water and sunlight. But as a kiddo becomes more advanced in their gardening skills, you can begin talking about seed production, pollination, photosynthesis, soil biology, mushrooms, diseases, pests and the list goes on! Perhaps most importantly, it may be wise to share why gardening is so important to embark on in this time and age. This can cover creating habitats and safe zones for pollinators, building food sovereignty and security while avoiding supply chain disturbances, farming for the purpose of carbon sequestration, etc. And the variations on this theme grow infinitely from there.
Of course art goes hand in hand with gardening. Design and edibleness are dependent on aesthetic values. A child will love choosing pansies (some look like tiger stripes!), colorful zinnias, snapdragons, and other annual flowers for their container garden. Consider taking them through the perennials section for in season cut bouquets, including daisies, black-eyed Susans, Penstemons, and Yarrow. They may want to try purple carrots, purple tomatillos, purple beans or peas, or eggplants if the kiddo’s favorite color is, you guessed it- purple! Challenge them to create colorful dishes with the veggies you all grow. “Can you create an all orange meal? All green? Red? Can you have every color of the rainbow represented on your plate?” Growing vegetables for their colors is not only fun, it is healthy! Produce that have unique colors often are chock full of vitamins, antioxidants and other nutrients that we may neglect to get through our Standard American Diet (SAD).
Other ways to encourage the gardener in every child:
- Pick out seeds together to grow by inviting them to take a look at a seed catalog or a seed company’s website. If you are looking for wild and very colorful seeds, Baker Creek Seeds is a great start!
- Grow sprouts or microgreens if you are lacking space, but want a child to see the life of a plant from seed to germination to the plate. See our other blog this month for details on how to grow microgreens!
- Grow things that create awe and wonder like:
- Sunflowers
- Beans
- Pumpkins
- Small cherry tomato varieties (Spoon is a great variety, because it is abundant and kiddos love the “baby” tomatoes)
- Raspberries and blackberries
- Plant a tree, and talk through how trees are important for creating habitat, providing oxygen, cooling of the climate and are a generous resource for paper, fruit, and wood.
- Plant fall or spring bulbs for children who may need an example of delayed gratification. Plant the popular daffodils in the fall and watch them bloom in the spring. Or plant gladiolas now and watch them pop up late summer.
- Build an observation habitat: Plant flowers and other plants that will attract hummingbirds or other pollinators that the children love (butterflies, bumble bees, etc). Place a bench beside the habitat and have children tell you what they see, hear, smell, feel, etc. This prompts quiet patience and the building blocks for scientific inquiry.
- Begin a worm or compost bin. Collect kitchen scraps, shred old school work, or bills and throw in a generous community of worms. Children will be amazed to watch these items turn into worm castings, or worm poo, and how it can be used in the garden or with house plants.
A kiddo who eats their first carrot or snap pea from the garden will never forget that moment. While gardening is magical as a child, being an adult and witnessing the magic is priceless. Green thumbs can grow at any age and stage, but it is a true gift to give the love for gardening to a child. They have the rest of their lives to grow with it!
Rick’s Garden Center believes in the power of people and plants. All of our blogs and content are written and edited by real humans with their own unique creative perspectives. Any use of our publications to ‘train’ generative artificial intelligence (AI) technologies to generative text is expressly prohibited. Any typos or errors are our own
Getting Home & Garden Ready For Sale
Despite mortgage interest rates continuing to climb in the past several months, in this military base-saturated city, we continue to have a thriving real estate market. If you are prepping a house for sale, know that it does not have to be scary! Historically most house sales occur in the spring, so the later winter months are the perfect time to begin thinking about how to improve your curb appeal and get a “to-do” list fleshed out in time for your spring sale. Sprucing up your yard is especially important.
The first thing you should do is take your blinders off. You probably have lived at your house for some time. Pretend you are pulling up to the house for the first time or walk by your house like you are new to the neighborhood. Take notes. Like an artist, you will come back to this step multiple times, building a masterpiece!
- Do you have a couple of ways your eye can “travel” through the landscape? If not, how can you add interest in multiple areas of your yard?
- What are the immediate eye sores? Clean those up or remove them immediately.
- What is the highlight of your home and yard? How can you further accent it?
- What trees or shrubs need to be trimmed?
- Are there holes in the landscape? Can a tree, shrub, ornamental grasses, several perennials, or a boulder fill in the gaps?
The second thing that is helpful to do right now is a general yard cleanup. Even if your yard is ho-hum, an easy way to elevate the place is to do some general yard maintenance.
- Clean pathways/ sidewalks by sweeping dirt/ debris or pulling weeds
- Rake leaves off your lawn. Leaves can be mulched into your lawn also, by running a lawn mower over them.
- Remove any weeds. Pulling is preferred especially now, when they are most likely dead. Feel free to put a natural pre-emergent down, like corn gluten. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating in the spring.
- Pruning should be done in the spring, but take note of which trees or shrubs should be addressed before your sale.
- Consider if outdoor statement containers should be purchased, so you can plant vibrant flowers ahead of putting your home on the market.
- Add a fresh layer of mulch or gravel to refresh any landscaping areas. Do not forget to put a weed pre-emergent down under the mulch and on top of the new mulch, to discourage weed growth. There is nothing more aggravating than completing a clean landscaping job to have weeds pop up in the spring. You can also consider laying down weed barrier fabric under the mulch.
- It should also be mentioned that you should remove any yard art that is specific to your “aesthetic.” You want potential buyers to imagine their own lives when doing a home walkthrough. Pack the garden gnomes away for when you move into your new place!
Next, you will want to address outdoor lighting. If you plan on selling in the spring, you will be hitting the market before it is light in the evenings. You will want to ensure that you make your house feel welcoming as people come to showings after getting off of work.
- Highlight your entrance. This is the most important area to highlight. If you are concerned about light pollution, make sure the light casts downward, instead of out or upward. If you are further interested in reducing light pollution at your home, check out this resource on what light fixtures are best: Click here!
- Other areas to consider lighting include pathways, the address number on your house, and any architecture or plants you want to illuminate.
Finally, consider your plant life. You will not do any planting until spring, but this is a wonderful time to find plants that will fit your needs. In the first step, you identified if your eye traveled through the house/garden lay out, if there were any highlights, and if there were holes in the landscape. As you choose plants to fit these roles, consider the following:
- How much water does it require? Will you be able to ensure it gets the water it needs until you sell? Will potential buyers be turned off by the amount of water that you use? Consider more xeric or water-wise options, if this is the case.
- How much maintenance will it require? For example, many younger buyers are no longer interested in lawns, due to the regular, watering, fertilization, aeration, and mowing that a lawn requires.
- If you have deer or rabbits in the neighborhood, consider choosing species that are resistant to their munching, so all of your plants look good for your closing!
- Resources that are helpful when selecting native plants or water-wise plants are detailed below:
- Plant Select is a brand of plants that we sell. They have an excellent variety of plants and detailed descriptions of each plant. They specialize in plants that are, “…unique, smart, and sustainable plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.” Check them out here: Click here!
- High Country Gardens is another gem of information. They “…offer a diverse and ever-expanding selection of plants for the unique challenges of Western gardens.” Use their perennial filter to drill down to find those difficult-to-find plants that are deer-resistant, in partial shade, water-wise, and good for your zone. Check them out here: Click here!
- Finally, a local resource. Please check out the water-wise demonstration gardens that the Colorado Springs Utilities have. They have two different locations listed below. All of the plants are labeled, which is helpful when you find a plant you have fallen in love with! It is helpful to go visit through the four seasons, so you see how foliage and plants change throughout the year. Check them out here: Click here!
There you have it! Good luck with getting your property ready for sale!
Norfolk Pine
Ah- the Norfolk Pine! The perfect gift for someone who has just moved into their first home around the holidays. The Norfolk Island Pine is also an elegant house plant to welcome into a home for year-round interest!
Also known as Araucaria heterophylla, this plant is not a pine at all. Beautiful and graceful, the Norfolk Pine was originally found on Norfolk Island in the South Pacific, adjacent to Australia. This island is the only natural and known occurrence of the plant. This conifer evergreen tree keeps a symmetrical and compact habit. Due to its branches that present a spiraled and stepped appearance, the tree has a tidy and pyramidal canopy. The needles are fine and almost fern-like, adding a delicate touch. It is so easy to fall in love with this tropical tree! Below you will find care tips for this unique plant.
Moisture:
Norfolk Island Pine’s native habitat is tropical and very humid (50-60%). Our climate is difficult for them, so supply additional humidity through daily misting, a humidifier on a timer, or a humidity tray (set your plant on a tray of water with pebbles). The Norfolk Pine does not like their roots to be waterlogged so make sure you are not over-watering, only watering when the top inch of soil is relatively dry.
Light:
Colorado has very bright light. The Norfolk Pine prefers bright indirect light. Place a Norfolk Pine by a window that receives a good amount of light, but shift the plant away from any direct light, since they are susceptible to sunburn. Many people find that a west or east-facing window is the perfect spot!
Temperature:
Araucaria heterophylla needs a temperature range between 60°F and 70°F. Do not place this tree by a window that transfers cool air inside or a heat vent that could cause scorching or excess drying out of the plant, and its needles. Even slight fluctuations in temperatures can cause stress, so make sure to keep your Norfolk Pine under careful watch. The first sign of stress is needle drop or loss of lower limbs. These lost limbs will not grow back.
Soil:
This beautiful tree would enjoy a well-draining potting mix. The key is moisture retention without becoming waterlogged. Consider a blend of peat moss or finished homemade compost, perlite, and sand. We often also recommend fine-grade orchid bark instead of perlite, since this mimics its native soil.
Fertilizing:
Since Norfolk Island Pines are very susceptible to burning by other means, it should be expected that it’s sensitive to nutrient burn as well. To combat this risk, it is recommended to only fertilize during the growing season (spring and summer, here), and with a diluted half-strength water-soluble fertilizer formulated specifically for house plants. The cadence of fertilizer application is roughly once a month.
Other notables:
The Araucaria heterophylla is sensitive to changes in its environment. Swings in temperature, changes in light intensity, and even moving the plant to different rooms can elicit needle drops. Another thing to note is that this plant is difficult to transplant. We typically recommend delaying transplanting into a larger pot for as long as possible. It is also preferred to up-pot during the growing season. With other houseplants, we usually recommend transplanting into a pot 2 inches larger than the existing pot. For Norfolk Pines, we recommend a pot up to 4 inches larger than its original sized pot. This allows you to reduce the number of up-pots the tree will experience in its lifetime.
While it is hard to keep tropical species like the Norfolk Pine happy in Colorado’s climate, it is well worth it. This tree is festive in the winter months, and a beautiful companion the rest of the year!
Rescuing Houseplants
Listen…shhhhh…if you listen closely, you can hear that neglected plant in the corner crying for help. You did not mean to cause harm. Whether you left for your holiday travels in a rush and failed to give your plants some extra TLC before you left, or you do not know the plant’s needs, the stress is equally killing you. You are at the point of not knowing what to do to make your plants happy again. No worries! We got you.
First:
Get nerdy. Pretend you are a scientist. Observe the plant. See what its symptoms include. What is it trying to tell you? Do research by using reference guides. We recommend The Plant Rescuer: The Book Your Houseplants Want You to Read by Sarah Gerrard-Jones (available at the Pikes Peak Library District). This book has helpful decision trees that will help you decipher your plant’s calls for help. Also, feel free to search the web on general care for your species of plant. Cross-check with multiple sources, so you are getting good and correct information on what your plant needs. Academic sources and search engines, like Google Scholar, are excellent places to find accurate knowledge. And plant communities on Reddit surprisingly are always insightful. Feel free to bring photos to us, and we can help diagnose what is occurring!
Second:
Based on the initial sleuthing you did through observation, reference books, internet searching, and inquiry, come back to the plant. Address the habitat first. Habitat includes light, moisture, heat, and humidity. Is your cactus in a dark corner? Is your Norfolk pine crisping up because it is in direct sun? How about moisture? Does your plant look like it is dehydrated, and needs a drink? Or conversely, has it seen too much water and would love to dry out its feet? Is your plant feeling a chill because it’s by a cold window? Or is it dropping dry leaves because it is in proximity of a heater vent? Some plants do not want to be drenched with water, but like the daily mist of a shower, a spritz of a spray bottle, etc. Are you giving those plants the humidity they need? If you have adjusted the habitat of the plant to fit its individual needs, and still do not see improvement in 7-14 days, move on to the next tier of help.
Third:
This next tier of inquiry is about pests, plants that are rootbound, and fertilization. Typically plants that were left for themselves for a couple of days and look sad will not need help from this stage of help. Plants that have fended for themselves for weeks while you were working on that big project, or you have mistakenly overwatered several times, or are just ready to go to a larger home are typically when you will see any of these concerns.
Pests come in all shapes and sizes. The most common pests you will encounter are house gnats, white flies, aphids, thrips, mealybugs, and scale. Another pest that occasionally shows up is various fungi. Some of these concerns are easy to get rid of, and some are extremely difficult. While this article does not have the space for the breadth of how to address each of these species, you should consult your resources (like The Plant Rescuer, or give us a call!).
Rootbound plants may present as under-watered but are typically not happy even after you have watered them. Check for roots poking out of the bottom of a drainage hole, or pull the side of the soil away from the pot to see if roots have encircled the base of the pot. If the plant is rootbound, up the pot to a container 2 inches wider than the current size.
Finally, nutrients may be what your plant is asking for. A nutrient deficiency can present as yellowing leaves, absence of blooms (as an example, begonias typically need fertilization to bloom), slowed growth, or languishing properties. Find a fertilizer that will suit your plant (cacti and succulents do not need a whole lot of fertilizer, so do not go straight for the all-purpose 20-20-20.) If you are not sure that your plant needs fertilizing, start with a diluted or lesser amount than advised on the container. You can always make a situation worse.
If at any point you lose a plant along the way, know it happens to the best of us. Take heart, there are other plants out there, and this is not an indication of your skill level as a plant person. Part of the journey is losing plants occasionally, sad as it is. Say last rites, find a peaceful resting spot for the plant (the compost is a nice spot), and fill the empty corner with a new plant friend. If it is too soon for that, take the time you need. We will be here when you are ready. Peace, Love & Plants.
Holiday Houseplant Care
So many of us travel around the holidays- sometimes traveling the whole stint of Christmas through the week of New Year’s. This stretch can be long for plants (and you- depending on who you are visiting and how long the trip is), without their regular TLC from you. Our easy-to-follow tips to ensure your plants look amazing after your holiday hiatus.
Moisture
All plants have different moisture needs. Some will need closer attention, and regular watering, even while you are gone. If this is the case for some of your plants, you can implement a self-watering system such as a plant watering globe, plant nanny, or drip irrigation system. A drip irrigation solution is as simple as filling a container of water, and then using a strip of yarn or other water-wicking material immersed in the water to have it “transport” water to the plant in need.
If you prefer, feel free to lean into your community. Ask a neighbor to water while you are gone. Ensure you show them exactly how you water, and how often, so they do not over or under water. Winter air in Colorado is dry. Some of your houseplants will benefit from added humidity. A humidifier on a timer or a DIY humidity tray are great solutions for when you travel. A humidity tray can be as simple as a ceramic drip tray filled with pebbles or clay balls/LECA. Fill the tray with water, and place your potted plant on top of this set-up. Anything that evaporates will immediately be absorbed by the plant.
Mulch
We typically think of mulching as a technique to utilize outdoors, but this technique can also be used indoors! Mulching can help retain moisture during short periods. Use fine-grade orchid bark as a top dress for houseplants that need extra care. Once you have mulched, regularly check that these plants are not retaining too much moisture.
Light
Winter can be a challenge for some houseplants, especially tropical houseplants native to the region around the equator. The equator experiences more consistent sun exposure year-round. You probably have noticed the increased darkness during the winter months in our region. Thus, some of your houseplants may be craving more light right now. Move any plants that need more light to a sunny window, or beneath a grow light on a timer. With temperatures dipping in the winter months, make sure you are aware that the window you place your plant by is transmitting those cold temperatures indoors. No house plant likes a cold draft!
Temperature
As alluded to in the above paragraph, temperature is key to a plant’s happiness! Winter brings new variables for plants. Cooler temperatures translated through windows can cause frost, so move plants that may be susceptible. We also have heaters running in the winter. If you have a plant directly over a vent or radiator, you may see leaf drop or “burnt” leaves. Move any plants that could be affected. Some of these signs will show up only after you have spent time away, so it is helpful to address these risks ahead of time.
Maintenance
While some of us may leave house plant maintenance at the bottom of our to-do list, it is important to address it before you leave for an extended time. Many problems that are riding under the surface can rear their head if left unchecked. This includes any existing pest concerns. Preventative measures can include wiping houseplants down with diluted neem oil and a rag. Neem works as a leaf shine, micro-nutrient, and pest repellant. Other maintenance may include trimming any dead or languishing leaves and stems, so pests cannot get a foothold while you are gone. Trimming in this fashion, also allows plants to conserve energy and focus on being healthy, instead of trying to recuperate in your absence.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing houseplants in the winter is frowned upon since winter is a season of “hibernation” and not growth for houseplants. Winter can be a stressful period for some species due to cold, drier conditions, and reduced light. Fertilizing can present additional stress. Do not fertilize ahead of your travels, where you are not able to observe any drastic changes or your plants’ calls for help!
Now, what if you were unable to follow these recommendations, and you return to a home of sad-looking plants? We will be covering houseplant-rescuing tips next month!
Tool Care Guide
Fall is here! This is a bittersweet moment for me. Harvest has hit its finale, and I am beginning to accumulate a stack of books that will keep me growing while my garden begins to take a snooze. Before I cozy up on the couch, and have a cup of tea- I always take care of my end-of-season garden tool maintenance. Garden tools should have regular TLC, especially after use, but in reality, this may not happen. I will detail daily care at the end of this article for your convenience.
End-of-Season Garden Tool Maintenance:
Deep Clean and Oil Pruners:
This is imperative to reduce disease and rust on your snippers, prolonging their use.
- Pruners should be taken apart and deep cleaned at least once each season.
- Unscrew any nuts/ bolts that hold the pruners together.
- Wash all parts separately in soapy water.
- Soak all parts in vinegar, then rinse with water.
- Rub with steel wool to remove any rust, then rinse and dry.
- Soak in diluted bleach water to sanitize, then rinse and dry.
- Buff with linseed oil and reassemble.
Sharpening:
Both pruners and Hori knives, as well as long-handled tools (hoes and shovels), need to be sharpened every season. Keeping pruners sharp helps produce clean cuts on plants, reducing the entry of any disease. Other tools benefit from a sharpening, making your life much easier. Digging a hole to plant with a dull shovel is no fun!
- Anything you are going to sharpen should be cleaned first. Long-handled tools may not need the vinegar/ bleach/ oil treatment unless there are concerns about rust.
- Push the sharpening file in the same direction across the blade and follow the original blade angle. Do not rub the file or stone back and forth, this does not sharpen but dulls the blade further.
- Smooth these newly filed edges with a sharpening stone.
- We recommend wearing eye protection and gloves when sharpening to protect against metal slivers.
Care for Wood Handles:
With long-handled tools, it is important to take care of wood handles. Utilize durable tape (think athletic tape or other heavy-duty tape) for minor cracks. Anything that is more compromised should be replaced immediately to prevent injury.
- Wipe down the handles with a damp cloth.
- Inspect for cracks or any weak spots between the handle and the tool head. Address with durable tape or replace the wooden handle if damaged.
- If needed, lightly sand the handle to smooth splinters, and rub linseed oil to condition.
Daily Garden Tool Care (when you have time!):
Generalized care:
- Rinse any digging tools, then use a wire brush or something similar to get rid of any stuck dirt or debris.
- Scrub snippers down with a brush and soapy water.
- If any tools were used with diseased plants or infected soil, make sure you disinfect them before any other use. Soak the infected tools in a diluted solution of 2 cups of bleach mixed with 1 gallon of water. Then rinse in plain water, and follow with a generous wipe of rubbing alcohol.
- Before storing tools, rub them dry with a rag.
- To help prevent rust on digging tools, mix a bucket of sand with plant-based oil, like linseed oil (avoid any petroleum oils, as this reduces plant vitality). The sand should be damp with oil, but not wet. Plunge any blades, tines, or teeth into the sand a few times for a quick clean, or do this following regular maintenance once the tools have been wiped dry.
- Store your tools in a dry and well-ventilated place. Small hand tools can be stored directly in a dry bucket of sand or gravel, and larger tools should be hung so as not to dull their blades in a mad scramble.
Removing Sap:
- Wipe blades with a rag dipped in mineral spirits or turpentine.
- Submerge and clean the blades in soapy water. Rinse and then wipe with linseed oil.
Preventing and Removing Rust:
- Soak any tools showing signs of rust in a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water overnight.
- Scrub the affected areas with steel wool.
- First, wash in soapy water, and then rinse.
- Rub dry and then buff with linseed or a mineral oil.
All tool maintenance requires is a little elbow grease and time. Sometimes we neglect our tools throughout the season, but I can tell you the reward of pulling out a clean, sharp, and shiny tool in the spring never ceases to make me smile. Happy fall, everyone!
New School Fall Gardening Stretegies
By Katherine Placzek
With fall approaching, many of you are getting ready to put your garden beds and other portions of the landscape to bed. With a more eco-friendly mindset, we would like to suggest a couple of tweaks to your typical routine.
Old school: Raking and bagging leaves, tossing them out for the trash.
New school: Rake leaves from below trees, and use them as mulch around your perennials, shrubs, or on top of your vegetable garden beds. You can also run these over with a lawn mower to mulch them into your grass.
Why: Organic matter, including yard waste, is the most prolific item in United States landfills. Consequently, this unsustainable practice directly contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Conversely, organic material returned to the soil reduces your environmental impact while providing a useful garden resource. These local sources of organic material and nutrition (from your own yard’s leaves) will feed and insulate your yard all winter long! Decomposing leaf matter enriches the soil, adding carbon and nitrogen to the soil, while plants “sleep.” Leaves also create safe places for native bees and other pollinators. Did you know that almost three-fourths of Colorado’s native bees nest and overwinter underground? Tip: Deeply water the leaf litter in after it has been placed. This creates a wet decomposing mat that will not blow away as easily.
If you have excess leaves that you are not going to be using, please feel free to bring your bagged leaves by our nursery gate (located at 600 N. 18th St. Colorado Springs, CO 80904). This is a community pile that other members come to gather for their own gardening usage.
Old School: Trim any perennials and remove them before the first snow.
New School: Leave all of your woody stalks, leaf matter, and ornamental grasses all winter long!
Why: This allows for winter interest and provides shelter for any hibernating insects. This is especially true for native plants that act as habitat for many native and beneficial insects. Larger life forms, including birds and mammals, will also benefit from grass seed heads left standing, and other plants that provide shelter in the harshest months. If this is unsightly for you, trim your plants, but leave the stems and other leaf matter on the ground to help create shelter throughout the winter. When soil temperature has reached 50 degrees Fahrenheit it’s the preferred time to begin trimming these perennials in the spring, after many insects have completed their wintering cycle.
Old School: Let the winter snows water your outdoor plants.
New School: Water trees, shrubs, and perennials on nice days throughout the winter.
Why: Unfortunately Colorado Springs does not get enough reliable winter moisture to overwinter many plants. This is especially true for newer plants that do not have an established root system yet. Many trees and shrubs, even those that are well-established, should continue to be watered on warm winter days from October through March. When it gets up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, pull out a hose or dust off your watering can and soak up some of those winter rays, yourself, while you water. Make sure you unhook any hoses after use, as temperatures can cause freezing in the hose bib and other hardware.
Old School: Say goodbye to gardening until spring.
New School: Fall and winter sow, including vegetable and perennial flower seeds.
Why: Many annual vegetables and perennial flowers have a natural cycle where they drop seeds or fruit in the fall. Mimic nature and plant some of your own seeds in the fall to see what comes up earlier and hardier in the spring! In the vegetable garden, this especially works for cold hardy greens. Think spinach, lettuce, arugula, radicchio, etc. For perennial flowers, like wildflowers, it is recommended to put these seeds down in the fall, as many of our native flowers require a cold stratification period. While many people may set up sections in their freezer and fridge for cold stratification processes, direct seeding in the fall eliminates the juggling of space in your fridge/ freezer. Let the ice cream stay where it is!
Old School: Wait until spring to amend any of your garden beds.
New School: Amend your garden beds in the fall so you can plant right away in the spring.
Why: Fall is a good time to test your soil so you know how to amend your beds. Our soils typically fall in the basic pH range here in the greater Colorado Springs area. This can impact how readily available nutrients are to our plants. Do your research and get your soil properly in shape for your spring! Remember that you can also amend with what nature provides; leaves, manure, compost, and other organic matter. These sources do not have a precise N-P-K (macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), nor spelled out micronutrients (calcium, magnesium, iron, etc) so it is recommended to test your soil in the spring again to see how your soil has changed due to any unregulated organic material. We offer pH and N-P-K, testing in-store, but the CSU extension office also offers a wide range of soil tests.
Now that you know these new school techniques, you might just try other new gardening techniques in the growing season. I know, I know- I am getting ahead of myself! Happy gardening!
Protecting Our Watershed While Gardening & Landscaping
By Katherine Placzek
Every item that we use in our green spaces– fertilizers, pesticides, sprays, powders and granules, etc. all make their way into the water, after it rains or when we water our plants. This means a myriad of compounds, organic and synthetic, are making their way in our or someone’s drinking water. Yes, most of our drinking water is filtered, but this also impacts lakes, streams, aquifers, wells, and other sources of water that can be a habitat for other living organisms, big and small. While this may feel overwhelming initially, we have the power to make little meaningful changes in the way we manage our landscapes.
Lawn and Garden Fertilization
Three things make a difference here. Quantity, quality and timing:
Quantity: When you use fertilizer, always use the instructed amount of fertilizer or a diluted/ lesser amount. This ensures that your plants can take up the applied fertilizer and that excess is not making its way into our waterways. Excess fertilization can stress plants and negatively impact water quality. Over fertilizer use through agriculture, golf course maintenance, and community landscaping have contributed to dead zones in waterways. A dead zone is where all aquatic life ceases to exist. First, expansive algae blooms occur that crowd out sunlight, which choke oxygen out of the environment, causing inhabitable levels for any life, plant or animal. While some dead zones do occur naturally, the second largest one in the world is in the Gulf of Mexico, where many of North America’s waterways meet. This dead zone is widely attributed to human causes.
Quality: When choosing a fertilizer, it is advisable to read the ingredients, similar to reading food labels. If you cannot recognize an ingredient, know it is likely synthetic. Not all things that are human made are bad, but do your research. You may decide that you do not want some of these ingredients in your garage, home, yard, and local ecosystem. This is why Rick’s is proud to continue to carry our Organic Lawn and Garden fertilizers. Both of these are gentle fertilizers, with low nitrogen levels, and contain ingredients such as chicken manure, bone meal and blood meal.
Timing: Never fertilize before a severe rainstorm where run-off can take the majority of your fertilizer downstream. This is also cost prohibitive. If you plan on putting fertilizer down before predicted moisture, consider prior to a snowfall, where the melting snow can bring the fertilizer into the ground gently. Also read the instructions. Many fertilizers recommend a fertilizing schedule. Follow this, or see if you can stretch the schedule out further, to reduce the amount of fertilizer that you have to buy and apply throughout the year. Never fertilize more than what is recommended, this can stress the plant, and excess product will be absorbed into the waterways.
Pesticide Use
Pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. Similar to fertilizing, follow the same wisdom regarding quantity, quality and timing. We have said it before, but just to remind you: “While pesticides are convenient and sometimes necessary especially when mitigating invasive plant species, pesticides negatively impact pollinator numbers…. It is important to remember that while applying control products at night can reduce pesticide exposure to several pollinators/ beneficial species, this does not protect nocturnal pollinators such as moths and bats. When we use pesticides there is no current method that does not negatively affect pollinators or their second tier predators, who are further up the food chain (Excerpt from our March 2024 newsletter).” All of these pesticides reach water sources that are drinking water for pollinators and larger organisms: birds, fish, fox, deer, etc. Many of the chemicals used in popular pesticides, including glyphosate do not break down with water. This means the problem is washed downstream, but never away, and can exist in our waterways indefinitely. Manual removal of weeds is no fun- we all know this. When we choose conventional pesticides, we give up clean water. Limiting the amount of pesticides we use in our yards is one step to keeping our watershed less polluted.
General Maintenance
When you mow your lawn, consider mulching the cut grass instead of bagging it unless you use the cut grass in your compost. Mulched grass that has been chopped by the mower multiple times and is spread evenly over the lawn acts as a wonderful additive of organic material to the soil. This method improves water retention, and overall soil health, decreasing your need for fertilizer. If you mulch the cut grass, but leave large clumps of thatch, this can burn your grass and be swept away into a waterway. This process can act similarly to over fertilization, causing algae blooms downstream. Use the same logic with fall leaves. Mulch leaf litter and either use it on your lawn or in your garden, to add nutrition to the soil. Avoid abandoning leaves in gutters, and storm drains, as it increases excess nitrogen in the watershed. In the winter, make sure you are using a low saline and non-toxic ice melt as well. Water guardianship takes place in all four seasons!
Plant Selection
Finally, the fun stuff! Select plants and grasses for your landscape that are resilient to the Rocky Mountain circumstances. When we do this, we automatically reduce the need for mowing, fertilizing and the use of pesticides. Native plants especially, have been living here in the Colorado landscape much longer than any human lifespan. They have been taking care of themselves without any of our human care measures, such as fertilization, and will continue to do so into the future. I believe that by choosing to plant native plants in a landscape, you are actually simplifying your overall workload in the yard. You will fertilize less, you will use pesticides less, and regarding grass, you will mow less. That means more money in your pocket and more sitting on the back porch, sipping on a cold beverage. Cheers!
The Gothic Vegetable Garden
By Katherine Placzek
Black & purple vegetables are not only for someone who is looking for a fun or Gothic vibe in their garden. Purple-ish fruits and vegetables have higher antioxidants, which play an important role in protecting your cells against heart disease, cancer, and other diseases. So it is healthy for you to plant and eat these dark maroon beauties!
All of these vegetables are carried by us as seeds through the Botanical Interests or Lake Valley Seed brands (both CO businesses). There is a wide array of purple/ black vegetables so feel free to go down the rabbit hole and create the dark and mysterious garden of your dreams! Note that various seeds may be out of stock throughout the season.
Amaranth
Burgundy: These plants offer beauty and sustenance! The plants can get tall and have elegant and eye-catching burgundy plumes that can be used in flower arrangements. The seeds were a major crop of the Aztecs, and are very high in protein and other nutrients. Cook the beige seeds like rice. Young leaves are also edible- use them in salads or steamed. The birds will also enjoy the seeds!
Basil
Cardinal: Cardinal’s’ deep crimson blooms allow this basil variety to be utilized beyond its culinary qualities! Use it as a surprising accent in a mixed container, or use it as a cut flower! The fragrance is lovely. With its strong scent, a little goes a long way in the kitchen. A wonderful dual-purpose herb.
Purple Petra: A deep purple, this basil adds vibrant color to any dish! A more mild basil- great for those who just want the essence of basil in their cooking. ‘Purple Petra’ can be used to make an elegant pink-tinted vinegar also! Use it as a companion plant to your nightshade veggies or as a statement plant in an herbal ensemble or annual flower container.
Purple Opal: Opal Basil has eye-catching purple leaves, and will bloom during the summer with light pink flowers. Feel free to fall in love with this variety! Grow it just for its rich beauty or for its culinary uses. Highly flavorful, this basil variety has flavor notes of cinnamon, anise, mint, and clove!
Siam Queen Thai: This beautiful basil has a complex sweet and spicy flavor with a hint of anise. Broadly used in Thai and Vietnamese dishes- it is versatile! It is easy to grow and highly ornamental with its dark amethyst blooms. Flower farms also grow Thai basil, for cut bouquets. Include it in your garden flower bunch and enjoy the unique fragrance. Bees also love this stuff!
Sweet Thai: Thai basil is of course a popular herb in many Southeast Asian cuisines, and is most regularly highlighted in a warm bowl of Vietnamese pho. This variety holds its flavor and texture through cooking more than other basils. Lovely in salads or when eaten fresh. Sweet Thai’s dark purple flowers and intoxicating scent allow it to double as an excellent addition to the flower garden. Produces well in containers also.
Beans
Royal Burgundy (Bush): Royal Burgundy has yummy purple pods that are easy to spot among green leaves. A wonderful variety to grow in cool weather and is unlikely to be challenged by bean beetles. A good container variety, as well as disease-resistant.
Trionfo Violetto (Pole): Trionfo Violetto’ translates to “purple triumph.” This Italian heirloom will win your heart, with its crisp and flavorful purple pods. While highly ornamental the plants are also highly prolific! The plants climb 6’–8′, and have prolific light amethyst flowers that bloom against green leaves that sport purple veins and stems. Similar to other purple beans, the pods magically turn green when they are cooked!
Beets
Bulls Blood: Plant one row of this beet variety for the beautiful greens, and another for the flavorful roots! ‘Bull’s Blood’ is valued for its tender, sweet, and deep red– almost plum foliage. Originally selected from a French heirloom for the darkest colored leaves, the 16″ “greens” are rich in nutrients! The roots are delicious as well, especially so, when harvested small. Use in succession planting as multiple crops are possible throughout a season.
Broccoli
Burgundy: This variety of broccoli is considered a “sprouting broccoli” since it produces one small main head, but then produces generous side shoots. Purple broccolis tend to be tender, flavorful, and full of antioxidants! ‘Burgundy’; is tolerant of a wider range of temperatures, which allows a longer harvest period. Some gardeners prefer to pinch the main floret off early on, to encourage more abundant side shoots. Also resistant to the disease, Fusarium yellows.
Cabbage
Red Acre: Jazz up cole slaw or any stir-fry with this gorgeous, deep-fuchsia cabbage! This variety has a very fresh and sweet flavor. Solid heads form early and grow on compact plants making ‘Red Acre’ an ideal choice for urban gardeners who may have limited space. Resistant to splitting as well as cabbage yellows disease. The heads store very well, in the refrigerator or a root cellar. A variety you must try!
Carrots
Cosmic Purple Carrots: While various colored carrots seem to be the new fad, they have been around for centuries. In fact, the purple carrot has been around for at least 1,000 years! While previously unpopular compared to orange carrots, purple carrots have been rediscovered, and rightfully so! Besides being high in vitamin A, purple carrots contain anthocyanins (an antioxidant) that are common in blueberries. Kids will love them!
Eggplants
Black Beauty: A beautiful nearly black vegetable with lovely, lavender blossoms pretty enough to grow in the flower garden! ‘Black Beauty’ has set the standard since 1902 for large and high-quality fruit. When harvested at its peak, the skin is tender, so no need to peel it; making it perfect for eggplant parmesan, ratatouille, and grilling!
Finger Fruit Purple: Grow fast-producing clusters of beautiful eggplants on your patio or a sunny corner of your vegetable plot! These 4-6″ fruits contain few seeds and have thin, tender skin—perfect for stir-fries and roasting. A plethora of royal purple fruits on just 22-38″ tall plants make this variety a perfect fit for containers and small gardens.
Jewel Amethyst: ‘Jewel Amethyst’ is perfect for containers, since it has a tidy habit. You will also notice its growing pattern makes harvesting a joy! The oval, purple fruits are best harvested when about 3”–4 ½” long, to stay tender. Harvest regularly from this variety to keep eggplant producing throughout the season.
Long Purple: This long, slender variety, is not usually found in grocery stores, and is a treat! Sometimes called ‘Italian Long Purple’, this prolific heirloom will bring beautiful ruby-purple color to the garden and savory goodness to the table. Enjoy in a wide variety of dishes!
Kohlrabi
Early Purple Vienna: Early Purple Vienna kohlrabi is an easy-to-grow cool weather crop that forms a distinctive dusty lilac bulb with pale flesh above ground. A beautiful plant! Peel its crunchy bulb and enjoy it raw or cooked. Leaves are also edible- eat similarly to collards, or other steamed greens. Kohlrabi is high in fiber, making it an excellent veggie for overall gut health. Kohlrabi is also high in isothiocyanates and glucosinolates, which are powerful antioxidants, thought to lower the risk of certain cancers, heart disease, and inflammation. Keeps well in the fridge.
Lettuces/ Greens
Brentwood Lettuce: This variety produces pretty burgundy lettuce leaves making for some beautiful salads! The heads produce high yields in compact spaces, and their bolt resistance allows for a long harvest. Also resistant to downy mildew, lettuce leaf aphid, and Fusarium wilt.
Dazzling Blue Kale: You will be mesmerized by the beautiful colors of this extra-cold-hardy kale. It is even more cold-tolerant than other lacinato types. The purple midrib pops against the blue-green leaves, some of which may take on more purple hues in the cool temperatures of fall. Lacinato kale is ideal for kale salads. Pick tender, baby greens for fresh salads, chips, or sauteing, in just 30 days!
Marvel of Four Seasons: Tasty and attractive, this 1800s French heirloom is also known as Merveille de Quatre Saisons. The variety has sweet and tender leaves that are chartreuse green at the base, turning to a beautiful cranberry-red, and forming a crinkly rosette! Gorgeous! Rosettes are 8″–12″ in diameter and good for large containers.
Red Russian Kale: Typically, kale gets sweeter after the first fall frost. ‘Red Russian’, on the other hand, is sweet and tender all the time. The lavender veins are part of what makes ‘Red Russian’ as attractive as it is delicious. Harvest baby greens in just 21 days!
Truchas Mini Romaine: This deep-merlot, mini-romaine is a game-changer for salads! ‘Truchas’ is compact and easy to grow in small spaces. It also creates gorgeous contrasts with green lettuce. Uniform leaves stay upright in the garden and make for easy plant cleanup. Has disease resistance to downy mildew, lettuce die-back, and lettuce mosaic virus.
Nasturtium
Black Velvet: These edible beauties add glamorous, ruby-black color to your salads and cheese plates! All parts of the flower (leaves, seeds, stems and flowers) are edible! Garnish tacos, avocado toasts, and pasta dishes with these beauties! Excellent as a companion plant to your tomatoes, and they repel several pests. Gorgeous in containers as well.
Tom Thumb Black Velvet: Tom Thumb features velvety, nearly black flowers with contrasting bright green foliage! Compact plants make this an outstanding choice for the border and containers. All parts of the flower (Leaves, seeds, stems and flowers) are edible! Add flowers to charcuterie boards, gazpachos, strewn on roasted root veggies, or create vinegar from them, for various culinary experiences!
Okra
Red Burgundy: Whether you eat okra or not, this plant is worth growing, just for the beauty of it! The pods are deep crimson edging toward maroon and are preceded by gorgeous yellow flowers that the bees love. This is the most productive red variety and will produce tender, 6″-long pods that are delicious in soup, gumbo, and stew, or deep-fried.
Shiso
Green and Red Shiso Perilla: An absolute must for herb gardens! Also called Japanese basil or the beefsteak plant, shiso’s incredible flavor can be described as a combination of cinnamon, mint, and clove with notes of cumin. A beautiful, heat- and drought-tolerant bedding plant that attracts pollinators, and is excellent for containers. This packet provides 75% green shiso and 25% red (shows up as a deep mulberry color).
Snap Pea
Sugar Magnolia: Wow, a purple snap pea that is tender and delicious! Enjoy the pretty purple blooms first, then the purple pea pods. Eat them without shelling, dipped in hummus, in a salad, or in stir-fries! Long hypertendrils (vigorous, multi-branching tendrils) support the 6′-7′ vining plants. This growing pattern creates an airy structure that helps prevent mildew. Some of these open-pollinated peas may be flecked with green, or be fully green.
Tomatillo
Purple: A purple tomatillo! Not only delicious but alluring also. The purple fruits are much sweeter than the green types and rich in antioxidants. Let the fruit remain on the plant as long as possible until the papery husks split for the best flavor and color. Tomatillos grow best in conditions similar to tomatoes (because they are related) but will handle a lot more heat. Tomatillos require cross-pollination so plant at least two plants in your garden to ensure good fruit production
Tomatoes
Black Krim: This Russian pole heirloom originated in Krymsk on the Black Sea in Russia. Baseball-sized fruits weigh 10–12 ounces and have dark reddish-brown flesh filled with a rich, slightly savory flavor. Fruit sets well in heat and is a reliable “black” tomato, producing even under adverse conditions from summer to fall. Make sure to stake or cage, as the plants can reach 6′ or more!
Cherokee Purple: Cherokee Purple’ is said to have been given to a Tennessee family by the Cherokees over 100 years ago. This dark maroon tomato has just the right balance of sweetness and even a hint of smoke, making it a winner in taste competitions. From summer into fall, you will harvest lots of 10–12 oz. tomatoes from this well-regarded heirloom variety. Make sure to stake or cage, as the plants can reach 6′ or more!
Chocolate Cherry: Chocolate Cherry tomatoes—Yum! These 1″ purplish-red, delicious tomatoes are great for snacking on and add a bit of sweetness to salads and pasta. The prolific vines bear seemingly endless trusses with 6–8 ounce fruits that will bring you back for harvest after harvest. Fruit is crack-resistant! Make sure to stake or cage.
Watermelon
Sugar Baby: The taste of summer? Watermelon! As the name suggests, ‘Sugar Baby’ is sweet, sweet, sweet! It is also small enough to easily fit in the refrigerator. This plant produces a bountiful crop of 8–10 pound deep dark emerald green orbs that have juicy red flesh.
Zucchini
Black Beauty: Black Beauty is an early maturing zucchini-type squash that features delicious deep black to green fruits with pale flesh. A very easy-to-grow bush variety that is highly productive all summer long. Enjoy grilled, sauteed, fresh, in soups, or zucchini bread!
