Preventing Water Loss

We understand it’s not easy to garden this year-especially with how expensive watering can be. Trust us, it’s no easy feat to maintain watering our plants either. But we don’t think you should have to give up gardening entirely. Knowing and understanding water loss will help prevent it, saving you money and protecting the environment! Gardening is for everyone and water costs shouldn’t stop you.

Reduce Evaporation
Colorado is notoriously dry. Combined with a hot summer, it creates treacherous environments for gardens. “Thanks to capillary action throughout the soil, which draws water up from below,” says Rhonda Massingham Hart, author of “The Dirt Cheap Green Thumb,” “evaporation can deplete water from deep in the ground.” If you don’t want water to leave your soil, mulch over the top. Gorilla hair maintains water the best and as a perk clumps, so it won’t blow away either. Another good mulch is straw! And if you lay gravel on top, which is also an excellent mulch, it will keep the straw down for you. Gravel mulch however retains heat. In the dog days of summer, this can lead to trouble. If you’re interested in free mulch and willing to work up a sweat, check out the cities free mulch pile: Click here!

Likewise, consider putting down a drip system or soaker-style sprinkler head. Sprinklers that disperse through the air lose more water than these close-contact irrigation systems. If you don’t have the funds for an irrigation system consider purchasing or making olla pots! This technique hails from ancient Northern Africa & China and involves an unglazed terra cotta pot used for underground irrigation. Due to the porous nature of the unglazed terra cotta, the water leaches slowly into the soil. And because the olla put is partially buried or almost totally buried underground, water is less likely to evaporate. To make your own gather terra cotta pots (they cannot be glazed), plug the drainage holes, and place a lid over the top of it. To learn how to make your own olla pot, watch this short video: Click here!
You can also use plastic containers, like old milk jugs, to create olla pots. Wash out milk containers then puncture three holes on the bottom with a hammer and nail, knife, or other cutting tool. These holes shouldn’t be large. Bury the container up to the neck and remove the cap. Fill with water, screw the cap back on, and viola! Plastic olla pot! Keep an eye on when to refill your olla pot and tailor the size of the container to the plant. This too goes for terra cotta olla pots.

Amendments & Native Plants
You can add amendments to your soil to retain and even attract water. Ever heard of humus? Humus is essentially composted plant and animal matter, yet it’s different from typical compost. Our brand of humus we sell is made only with plant product and is one of thew few vegan style compost we provide. Dark in color and rich in nutrients, humus is also excellent at conserving water. Its presence within your soil lessens water percolation and keeps it “in reach” for plants. Likewise, it also slowly releases nitrogen, sulfur, and other essential amendments to plants over time. If you’d like to learn more about humus, read this article and scroll to pages 212-3: Click here!

On hot summer days, plants sweat like us. “One large shade tree can transpire several hundred gallons of water through its leaves,” remarks Rhonda Massignham Hart. While this tidbit of information seems contrary to the information above about reducing water evaporation, misting plants on especially hot days will likewise retain water. This shouldn’t be done every day however, reserve misting for only the hottest and driest of summer days. Native plants are less likely to transpire as non-native because they are adapted to Colorado’s semi-arid climate. If you’re tight on cash for water yet are looking to plant something new, always always ALWAYS choose native. Not only will these plants be saving you money but also you’ll also be helping the environment by returning native plants to the ecosystem! Don’t be surprised if your plants attract more beneficial bugs, birds, and even larger wildlife. Here at Rick’s we’re especially focused on trying to increase our native perennial selection for this reason. If you want certain qualities of native plants, here is a great way to select what you want before shopping at Ricks: Click here!

Conserving water doesn’t have to be scary or expensive. With these hacks, you’re sure to save on your water bill. Here at Rick’s, we’re excited to share more gardening tricks and tips. No one should ever have to give up gardening due to money or to the environment. Gardening is for everyone!

January 2025 Recap

Monday: Rick’s Highlights

On Mondays, we like to post about things happening around the store! There will be LOTS MORE in February!

Astrophytum asterias Superkabuto

• Originate in Northern & Central Mexico!
• Sought out due to their beautiful white spotted patterns and semi-fuzzy texture.
• Occasionally even flowers! Flower color is white.
• Maximum size is about equal to a baseball!

Sinningia Hybrid

• Comes from Brazil!
• A perennial hybird of two different Sinningia, equates to a hardier plant!
• Similar to African Violets in terms of light needs.
• Misting soil required if plant goes dormant.

Raphionacme flanaganii

• Native range its from Kenya to E. South Africa.
• Produces vines that reach to 3′ long.
• Enjoys partial sun and shade.
• Occasionally blooms small fragrant flowers that green with a burgundy center.

Calibanus hookeri

• Native to North Central Mexico.
• One of only two species in genus, making this plant VERY RARE!
• Related to Ponytail Palms, somewhat pet safe.

ALL OF THESE PLANTS ARE CURRENTLY FOR SALE! We have a limited quantity, so hurry in before they’re gone!

A select group of seeds are 2024 stock, so sales-wise they’re considered “expired.” However, that doesn’t mean they won’t sprout! We like to give our “expired” seeds away for free to places that need them, such as schools and other community centers. If you’re school is interested in seeds, please come into the store and show your school ID or community center ID at the front desk! Happy gardening!

We have both flower & vegetable 2024 seeds!

Tuesday: None

Wednesday: Sales

Thursday: Wild Card Days

Friday: Garden To-Do’s

Winter Houseplant Care: Listen…shhhhh…if you listen closely, you can hear that neglected plant in the corner crying for help. You did not mean to cause harm. Whether you left for your holiday travels in a rush and failed to give your plants some extra TLC before you left, or you do not know the plant’s needs, the stress is equally killing you. You are at the point of not knowing what to do to make your plants happy again. No worries! We got you on our blog! Click here to read!

Seed Starting Indoors: We know it seems early, but the sooner you start your seeds the better. For tomato and pepper plants it’s recommended you start them outside once soil temperatures reach 50 degrees at night. This however doesn’t work well for Colorado’s short growing season. To get the most produce out of your vegetables we recommend starting seeds indoors now and in February! All you need is a seed-starting soil mix and a grow kit! Click here to read!

Starting Seed Troubles?: Have you been waiting for your seeds to pop up and still nothing? No matter what you do, your seedlings perish. There are multiple factors as to why your seeds may not be sprouting. Seed age, crusting soil, and temperature fluctuation are just a few. In the article below by CSU Extension, scientists review why your seeds may not be thriving as they should. Fear not, solutions are provided to fix issues and to get those seeds growing! Happy gardening! Click here to read!

Saturday: Plant Factoids

Interesting gardening and plant facts! We include sources, so in case you want to learn more you can find that information!

“Proper light levels are important for the health of the rubber plant. They do best in medium to bright filtered light. Unfiltered, direct sunlight can damage leaves.”

-“1326 – Rubber Plant – PlantTalk Colorado.” Colostate.edu, 2025, planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/houseplants/1326-rubber-plant/. Accessed 18 Jan. 2025.

“Only feed or transplant a Norfolk pine (Araucaria) when they are actively growing (March through September). To supply nutrients any standard soluble fertilizer formulated for houseplants will do. Araucaria are slow growers and only need to be transplanted when they show signs of being root bound or have roots growing out the base of the container.”

-“1321 – Norfolk Island Pine – PlantTalk Colorado.” Colostate.edu, 2025, planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/houseplants/1321-norfolk-island-pine/. Accessed 25 Jan. 2025.

“Seedlings in soilless mixes need regular fertilization. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength a week after seedlings germinate. Then fertilize every two weeks at full strength.”

-“1840 – Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors – PlantTalk Colorado.” Colostate.edu, 2025, planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/vegetables/1840-starting-vegetable-seeds-indoors/?_gl=1. Accessed 1 Feb. 2025.

Sunday: Highlighted Products

Getting Home & Garden Ready For Sale

Despite mortgage interest rates continuing to climb in the past several months, in this military base-saturated city, we continue to have a thriving real estate market.  If you are prepping a house for sale, know that it does not have to be scary! Historically most house sales occur in the spring, so the later winter months are the perfect time to begin thinking about how to improve your curb appeal and get a “to-do” list fleshed out in time for your spring sale. Sprucing up your yard is especially important.

The first thing you should do is take your blinders off. You probably have lived at your house for some time.  Pretend you are pulling up to the house for the first time or walk by your house like you are new to the neighborhood. Take notes. Like an artist, you will come back to this step multiple times, building a masterpiece!

• Do you have a couple of ways your eye can “travel” through the landscape? If not, how can you add interest in multiple areas of your yard?
• What are the immediate eye sores? Clean those up or remove them immediately.
• What is the highlight of your home and yard? How can you further accent it?
• What trees or shrubs need to be trimmed?
• Are there holes in the landscape? Can a tree, shrub, ornamental grasses, several perennials, or a boulder fill in the gaps?

The second thing that is helpful to do right now is a general yard cleanup. Even if your yard is ho-hum, an easy way to elevate the place is to do some general yard maintenance.

• Clean pathways/ sidewalks by sweeping dirt/ debris or pulling weeds
• Rake leaves off your lawn. Leaves can be mulched into your lawn also, by running a lawn mower over them.
• Remove any weeds. Pulling is preferred especially now, when they are most likely dead.  Feel free to put a natural pre-emergent down, like corn gluten. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating in the spring.
• Pruning should be done in the spring, but take note of which trees or shrubs should be addressed before your sale. 
• Consider if outdoor statement containers should be purchased, so you can plant vibrant flowers ahead of putting your home on the market.
• Add a fresh layer of mulch or gravel to refresh any landscaping areas. Do not forget to put a weed pre-emergent down under the mulch and on top of the new mulch, to discourage weed growth. There is nothing more aggravating than completing a clean landscaping job to have weeds pop up in the spring. You can also consider laying down weed barrier fabric under the mulch.
• It should also be mentioned that you should remove any yard art that is specific to your “aesthetic.” You want potential buyers to imagine their own lives when doing a home walkthrough.  Pack the garden gnomes away for when you move into your new place!

Next, you will want to address outdoor lighting. If you plan on selling in the spring, you will be hitting the market before it is light in the evenings. You will want to ensure that you make your house feel welcoming as people come to showings after getting off of work.

• Highlight your entrance. This is the most important area to highlight.  If you are concerned about light pollution, make sure the light casts downward, instead of out or upward. If you are further interested in reducing light pollution at your home, check out this resource on what light fixtures are best: Click here!
• Other areas to consider lighting include pathways, the address number on your house, and any architecture or plants you want to illuminate.

Finally, consider your plant life. You will not do any planting until spring, but this is a wonderful time to find plants that will fit your needs. In the first step, you identified if your eye traveled through the house/garden lay out, if there were any highlights, and if there were holes in the landscape. As you choose plants to fit these roles, consider the following:

• How much water does it require? Will you be able to ensure it gets the water it needs until you sell? Will potential buyers be turned off by the amount of water that you use? Consider more xeric or water-wise options, if this is the case. 
• How much maintenance will it require? For example, many younger buyers are no longer interested in lawns, due to the regular, watering, fertilization, aeration, and mowing that a lawn requires.
• If you have deer or rabbits in the neighborhood, consider choosing species that are resistant to their munching, so all of your plants look good for your closing!
• Resources that are helpful when selecting native plants or water-wise plants are detailed below:
  • Plant Select is a brand of plants that we sell. They have an excellent variety of plants and detailed descriptions of each plant. They specialize in plants that are, “…unique, smart, and sustainable plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.” Check them out here: Click here!
  • High Country Gardens is another gem of information. They “…offer a diverse and ever-expanding selection of plants for the unique challenges of Western gardens.” Use their perennial filter to drill down to find those difficult-to-find plants that are deer-resistant, in partial shade, water-wise, and good for your zone. Check them out here: Click here!
  • Finally, a local resource. Please check out the water-wise demonstration gardens that the Colorado Springs Utilities have. They have two different locations listed below. All of the plants are labeled, which is helpful when you find a plant you have fallen in love with! It is helpful to go visit through the four seasons, so you see how foliage and plants change throughout the year. Check them out here: Click here!

There you have it! Good luck with getting your property ready for sale!

Norfolk Pine

Ah- the Norfolk Pine! The perfect gift for someone who has just moved into their first home around the holidays. The Norfolk Island Pine is also an elegant house plant to welcome into a home for year-round interest! 

Also known as Araucaria heterophylla, this plant is not a pine at all. Beautiful and graceful, the Norfolk Pine was originally found on Norfolk Island in the South Pacific, adjacent to Australia. This island is the only natural and known occurrence of the plant. This conifer evergreen tree keeps a symmetrical and compact habit. Due to its branches that present a spiraled and stepped appearance, the tree has a tidy and pyramidal canopy. The needles are fine and almost fern-like, adding a delicate touch. It is so easy to fall in love with this tropical tree! Below you will find care tips for this unique plant.

Moisture:

Norfolk Island Pine’s native habitat is tropical and very humid (50-60%). Our climate is difficult for them, so supply additional humidity through daily misting, a humidifier on a timer, or a humidity tray (set your plant on a tray of water with pebbles). The Norfolk Pine does not like their roots to be waterlogged so make sure you are not over-watering, only watering when the top inch of soil is relatively dry.

Light:

Colorado has very bright light. The Norfolk Pine prefers bright indirect light. Place a Norfolk Pine by a window that receives a good amount of light, but shift the plant away from any direct light, since they are susceptible to sunburn. Many people find that a west or east-facing window is the perfect spot!

Temperature:

Araucaria heterophylla needs a temperature range between 60°F and 70°F. Do not place this tree by a window that transfers cool air inside or a heat vent that could cause scorching or excess drying out of the plant, and its needles. Even slight fluctuations in temperatures can cause stress, so make sure to keep your Norfolk Pine under careful watch. The first sign of stress is needle drop or loss of lower limbs. These lost limbs will not grow back.

Soil:

This beautiful tree would enjoy a well-draining potting mix. The key is moisture retention without becoming waterlogged. Consider a blend of peat moss or finished homemade compost, perlite, and sand. We often also recommend fine-grade orchid bark instead of perlite, since this mimics its native soil.  

Fertilizing:

Since Norfolk Island Pines are very susceptible to burning by other means, it should be expected that it’s sensitive to nutrient burn as well. To combat this risk, it is recommended to only fertilize during the growing season (spring and summer, here), and with a diluted half-strength water-soluble fertilizer formulated specifically for house plants. The cadence of fertilizer application is roughly once a month.

Other notables:

The Araucaria heterophylla is sensitive to changes in its environment. Swings in temperature, changes in light intensity, and even moving the plant to different rooms can elicit needle drops. Another thing to note is that this plant is difficult to transplant. We typically recommend delaying transplanting into a larger pot for as long as possible. It is also preferred to up-pot during the growing season. With other houseplants, we usually recommend transplanting into a pot 2 inches larger than the existing pot. For Norfolk Pines, we recommend a pot up to 4 inches larger than its original sized pot. This allows you to reduce the number of up-pots the tree will experience in its lifetime.

While it is hard to keep tropical species like the Norfolk Pine happy in Colorado’s climate, it is well worth it. This tree is festive in the winter months, and a beautiful companion the rest of the year!

Rescuing Houseplants

Listen…shhhhh…if you listen closely, you can hear that neglected plant in the corner crying for help. You did not mean to cause harm. Whether you left for your holiday travels in a rush and failed to give your plants some extra TLC before you left, or you do not know the plant’s needs, the stress is equally killing you. You are at the point of not knowing what to do to make your plants happy again. No worries! We got you.

First:

Get nerdy. Pretend you are a scientist. Observe the plant. See what its symptoms include. What is it trying to tell you? Do research by using reference guides. We recommend The Plant Rescuer: The Book Your Houseplants Want You to Read by Sarah Gerrard-Jones (available at the Pikes Peak Library District). This book has helpful decision trees that will help you decipher your plant’s calls for help. Also, feel free to search the web on general care for your species of plant. Cross-check with multiple sources, so you are getting good and correct information on what your plant needs. Academic sources and search engines, like Google Scholar, are excellent places to find accurate knowledge. And plant communities on Reddit surprisingly are always insightful. Feel free to bring photos to us, and we can help diagnose what is occurring!  

Second:

Based on the initial sleuthing you did through observation, reference books, internet searching, and inquiry, come back to the plant. Address the habitat first. Habitat includes light, moisture, heat, and humidity. Is your cactus in a dark corner? Is your Norfolk pine crisping up because it is in direct sun?  How about moisture? Does your plant look like it is dehydrated, and needs a drink?  Or conversely, has it seen too much water and would love to dry out its feet? Is your plant feeling a chill because it’s by a cold window? Or is it dropping dry leaves because it is in proximity of a heater vent? Some plants do not want to be drenched with water, but like the daily mist of a shower, a spritz of a spray bottle, etc.  Are you giving those plants the humidity they need? If you have adjusted the habitat of the plant to fit its individual needs, and still do not see improvement in 7-14 days, move on to the next tier of help. 

Third: 

This next tier of inquiry is about pests, plants that are rootbound, and fertilization. Typically plants that were left for themselves for a couple of days and look sad will not need help from this stage of help. Plants that have fended for themselves for weeks while you were working on that big project, or you have mistakenly overwatered several times, or are just ready to go to a larger home are typically when you will see any of these concerns. 

Pests come in all shapes and sizes. The most common pests you will encounter are house gnats, white flies, aphids, thrips, mealybugs, and scale. Another pest that occasionally shows up is various fungi. Some of these concerns are easy to get rid of, and some are extremely difficult. While this article does not have the space for the breadth of how to address each of these species, you should consult your resources (like The Plant Rescuer, or give us a call!).

Rootbound plants may present as under-watered but are typically not happy even after you have watered them. Check for roots poking out of the bottom of a drainage hole, or pull the side of the soil away from the pot to see if roots have encircled the base of the pot. If the plant is rootbound, up the pot to a container 2 inches wider than the current size.

Finally, nutrients may be what your plant is asking for. A nutrient deficiency can present as yellowing leaves, absence of blooms (as an example, begonias typically need fertilization to bloom), slowed growth, or languishing properties. Find a fertilizer that will suit your plant (cacti and succulents do not need a whole lot of fertilizer, so do not go straight for the all-purpose 20-20-20.) If you are not sure that your plant needs fertilizing, start with a diluted or lesser amount than advised on the container. You can always make a situation worse. 

If at any point you lose a plant along the way, know it happens to the best of us. Take heart, there are other plants out there, and this is not an indication of your skill level as a plant person. Part of the journey is losing plants occasionally, sad as it is. Say last rites, find a peaceful resting spot for the plant (the compost is a nice spot), and fill the empty corner with a new plant friend. If it is too soon for that, take the time you need. We will be here when you are ready. Peace, Love & Plants.  

Coco Coir vs Peat Moss

By Katherine Placzek

Dear reader, 

This article began initially with a straightforward trajectory. I was going to lay out why using peat moss in soil mixes is environmentally harmful and that we all should make the switch to using coco coir. But as I continued my research, I found it was not that simple and the subject required lots of continued digging to find accurate information. Instead, I am going to try to educate you on both substrates to the best of my ability.   

Peat Moss:

Why is it used: 

Peat moss has an incredible water retention capability- holding 20 times its weight in water.  It also has a small but not insignificant amount of nutrients. You can pot a plant directly in peat moss and it will grow due to these nutrients. It is light and fluffy, used by many gardeners to lighten existing soils. It is highly acidic if not amended with lime, and shrubs like hydrangeas or blueberries can successfully be planted into peat.  It also can be used as a pea/bean inoculant. It was not until the 1970s that peat became commonplace as a planting substrate for plant people. 

How is it harvested/manufactured: 

Peat bogs have centuries (possibly more) worth of plants and decomposing peat/sphagnum peat growing and compacting in a dynamic cycle and ecosystem. It is estimated that peat bogs contain more than 44% of all the Earth’s soil carbon and thus are considered a carbon sink (where carbon is stored and absorbed from the atmosphere). Harvesting practices vary in different bogs and countries. The majority of the peat sold in the United States is harvested in Canada. 95% of all peat in Canada is harvested in partnership with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA). The CSPMA has strict regulations that they follow, and are involved in many ecological restorations, as well as scientific research behind peat bogs, and the living organisms that use the bogs as habitat.  Many of their practices publicize that they attempt to reduce harm, prevent overharvesting, protect habitats, and replant as part of their aim toward sustainability. While this sounds good, in 2021, it was reported that peat harvesting released 2.1 megatonnes of carbon dioxide into the environment. That’s the equivalent emissions of the annual emissions of five gas-fired power plants. Critics also point out that rehabilitated peat bogs are unable to become a carbon-accumulating ecosystem (or a carbon sink) until roughly 20 years after harvesting. Harvesting in other countries is not regulated and they are likely not as concerned with any harm associated with their practices. All harvesting is mechanical due to utilizing fossil fuels. The UK has banned all peat sales for personal gardens beginning in 2024. 

Factors to consider: 

1. Peat bogs house diverse and intricate habitats for all sorts of living organisms. Harvesting, regardless of practice, disrupts this environment.
2. Peat bogs are considered carbon sinks- absorbing carbon from the atmosphere. Harvesting peat releases carbon into the atmosphere, causing concern that this practice contributes to climate change.
3. Fossil fuels are used in the harvesting process and are used in the shipping of this product to garden centers and other plant/ home improvement stores.

Coco Coir:

Why is it used: 

Coco Coir also has a high water retention rate, retaining 8-9 times its weight in water. It does not have any innate nutrients or pH implications, so it is a neutral starting point as a substrate. Coco coir is a waste product from all other food-grade products made from the meat/ milk of the coconut. Before the 1980s, millions of tons of coco coir were left to decompose in large piles, often taking close to 20 years to decompose.  Now there is a market for this “waste product,” as a soil substrate.

How is it harvested/manufactured: 

Many coconut plantations are based in the poorest countries, Sri Lanka, India, Vietnam, the Philippines, and more recently, in Central and South America and even Mexico. Coconut plantations are often monocultures that reduce natural biodiversity and cause displacement of living organisms. Coconut trees produce a lot of coconuts but do so at the cost of soil degradation. The coconut hull first is soaked in water (freshwater or saltwater) for a long time to break down the fibers on the hull. This process is called retting. The retting process generates water pollution. Among the major organic pollutants are pectin, fat, tannin, toxic polyphenols, and several types of bacteria including salmonella.  While scientists are experimenting with treatment options, there does not seem to be a broad-scale accepted solution at this time. This wastewater is often returned to the local community’s water supply or the ocean. Then, either the coconut hulls can be highly processed through mechanical mastication, or beaten and broken down further by hand.  This manual process creates a lot of dust, and workers are typically not provided any PPE (Personal Protective Equipment).  Reports indicate an increase in respiratory illnesses in communities with coco coir processing. Many of the following processes, if mechanized, are achieved with fossil fuels. There are currently no regulations on the industry’s standards. I also found conflicting information on whether a second rinse with chemicals is necessary, so that is an additional set of pollution outputs to consider. In general, it’s harder to find reputable sources explicitly sharing information about coco coir. This makes me concerned about the transparency of the industry, as well as possible offenses that are intentionally hidden from the public’s knowledge.

Factors to consider:

1. Many coconut plantations are monocultures, created by destroying native habitats for diverse organisms, thus causing soil degradation.
2. Pollution of the environment due to wastewater from retting processes.
3. The lack of regulations concerning this product allows for humanitarian abuses to occur, including health hazards for workers and the surrounding community.
4. Fossil fuels are used in portions of the manufacturing process and in transporting this product to your local garden center.

I think continuing to use coco coir or peat moss warrants extra research. Dig into the companies that you are supporting. Do they have certifications, and third-party ratings that indicate that they care about their staff’s health and wellbeing? The environment and the community they impact? Their carbon footprint? Other points that you are passionate about?

All of this makes me consider, there have been gardeners and plants people before me who did not have access to these substrates. What did they use before? Compost. Manure. Leaves. Green manures/ cover crops. Aged forest products (humus). Straw. None of these probably have the water retention that peat moss or coco coir boast, but they all have higher nutrition, which means prior plants people did not have to fertilize in the same manner that we do when we utilize a peat or coco coir base. Many of these local inputs are also free. All of this is interesting and will lead to further research on my part.

The most honest conclusion that I can make is that, when we are removed from the product we are buying, we also become naïve of the ultimate cost and any negative impacts of the product. Perhaps, the point here is to grow plants that are acclimated to our growing habitat (for instance, native plants do not need peat or coco coir to thrive), or to build soil from what nature provides in our local vicinity. While this is easy to say, it is harder to do. I think this new knowledge is powerful, though. We can always experiment and try new things in hopes of finding replacements that have a lesser negative impact. Good luck with your own decisions ahead of you! 

Soils that we carry that do not contain peat moss or coco coir:

Back to Earth-

• Composted Cotton Burrs (Acidified and Non-acidified)

EKO-

• Clay Buster
• Top Dressing

Happy Frog-

• Soil Conditioner

Rocky Mountain Soils-

• Top Soil
• Humus
• Compost Cow
• Tree and Shrub

Yard Care-

• Soil Pep

Note: We also carry a variety of only coco coir or only peat-based soils, if you decide you prefer one over the other. 

Resources to utilize in your own research:

I think that Gardener Scott (A gardener in CO, who has an excellent library of YouTube videos on vegetable gardening) has a comprehensive video on the pros and cons of both of these substrates.

The link to the website that Gardener Scott references: https://www.gardenmyths.com/coir-ecofriendly-substitute-peat-moss/

Canada’s National Observer on the carbon footprint of peat harvesting: https://www.nationalobserver.com/2023/07/07/news/canadas-carbon-storing-peat-digs-climate-dilemma#:~:text=According%20to%20Environment%20Canada%2C%20about,of%20growth%20within%20those%20sites.

21 report on carbon sinks and greenhouse sources in Canada: https://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2023/eccc/En81-4-2021-1-eng.pdf

A Q&A with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA):

The CSPMA’s website (includes the history of peat, how their manufacturers harvest peat, industry reports, and more) https://peatmoss.com/

Generalized information on how coco coir is made: https://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Coir.html

Another source on how coir is made: https://coir.com/utility/how-to-make-coconut-coir-the-manufacturing-process/

A study linking coco coir to impaired respiratory function: https://www.thepharmajournal.com/archives/2023/vol12issue3/PartAR/12-3-455-522.pdf

Embracing Nature’s Way: Integrated Pest Management

Integrated Pest Management is like the Gandalf of gardening – a wise, all-encompassing strategy that balances the forces of nature to keep your greenery flourishing. At its core, IPM is a holistic approach that combines biological, cultural, and physical/ mechanical control methods to manage pests and diseases. Instead of reaching for a pesticide or other control products, we tap into the power of Mother Nature herself to maintain a thriving and balanced ecosystem.

Some of our IPM practices include:

• Biological: Releasing ladybugs or other beneficial insects inside our greenhouses, or hoop houses to feast on those insects that are a bother; aphids, scale, mealy bugs, leafhoppers, etc. We also let spiders do their good work eating larger insects, like grasshoppers.
• Cultural: Reducing watering if fungal or pest problems crop up.
• Mechanical: Manually removing bugs from plants by hand or with water (aphids, mealy bugs, scale, potato bugs, etc)

While we lean into biological, cultural, or mechanical solutions, the last part of IPM is responsibly utilizing chemical products to rid of pests. This means we use more natural controls, such as Neem oil or Spinosad Soap, before other products. It is also important for us to factor in when pollinators or other beneficial insects may be around. So we try to spray when these individuals are not active. We also follow recommended application methods to avoid pollution of our environment or incur undue costs.

Why does Rick’s Garden Center Choose IPM Over Pesticides?

Environmental Harmony:

• Pesticides can disrupt your garden’s delicate ecosystem – effective, but with unintended consequences. IPM, on the other hand, dances with nature rather than against it. By embracing natural predators, beneficial insects, and environmentally friendly practices, we create a harmonious balance that keeps the pests at bay without harming the environment. By mostly avoiding synthetic chemicals, we reduce the environmental impact and create a garden that’s both beautiful and a haven for beneficial insects and wildlife.

Economic Sense:

• Let’s face it – pesticides can burn a hole in our pockets. IPM, however, is cost-effective in the long run. By relying on natural solutions, we reduce the need for constant reapplication of expensive chemicals, improving our bottom line.

Happy and Healthy Plants:

• Picture this: a garden where plants are not only surviving but thriving. That’s the magic of IPM. By addressing the root causes of pest problems and fostering a healthy soil environment, we ensure that your green companions are resilient and ready to face whatever life throws their way.

Community Connection:

• We believe in building a community that shares our love for the earth. By choosing IPM, we invite our customers to join us in creating a garden that is a testament to the power of working hand in hand with nature.

At Rick’s Garden Center, IPM isn’t just a gardening strategy – it’s a philosophy. It is about embracing the rhythms of nature and inviting others to join us toward a more sustainable future. So, next time you visit, know that you are not just buying plants; you are becoming a part of our eco-minded family.

2024 Pepper Book

2024 Tomato Book

The Gothic Vegetable Garden

By Katherine Placzek

Black & purple vegetables are not only for someone who is looking for a fun or Gothic vibe in their garden. Purple-ish fruits and vegetables have higher antioxidants, which play an important role in protecting your cells against heart disease, cancer, and other diseases. So it is healthy for you to plant and eat these dark maroon beauties!
All of these vegetables are carried by us as seeds through the Botanical Interests or Lake Valley Seed brands (both CO businesses). There is a wide array of purple/ black vegetables so feel free to go down the rabbit hole and create the dark and mysterious garden of your dreams! Note that various seeds may be out of stock throughout the season.

Amaranth
Burgundy: These plants offer beauty and sustenance! The plants can get tall and have elegant and eye-catching burgundy plumes that can be used in flower arrangements. The seeds were a major crop of the Aztecs, and are very high in protein and other nutrients. Cook the beige seeds like rice. Young leaves are also edible- use them in salads or steamed. The birds will also enjoy the seeds!

Basil
Cardinal: Cardinal’s’ deep crimson blooms allow this basil variety to be utilized beyond its culinary qualities! Use it as a surprising accent in a mixed container, or use it as a cut flower! The fragrance is lovely. With its strong scent, a little goes a long way in the kitchen. A wonderful dual-purpose herb.
Purple Petra: A deep purple, this basil adds vibrant color to any dish! A more mild basil- great for those who just want the essence of basil in their cooking. ‘Purple Petra’ can be used to make an elegant pink-tinted vinegar also! Use it as a companion plant to your nightshade veggies or as a statement plant in an herbal ensemble or annual flower container.
Purple Opal: Opal Basil has eye-catching purple leaves, and will bloom during the summer with light pink flowers. Feel free to fall in love with this variety! Grow it just for its rich beauty or for its culinary uses. Highly flavorful, this basil variety has flavor notes of cinnamon, anise, mint, and clove!
Siam Queen Thai: This beautiful basil has a complex sweet and spicy flavor with a hint of anise. Broadly used in Thai and Vietnamese dishes- it is versatile! It is easy to grow and highly ornamental with its dark amethyst blooms. Flower farms also grow Thai basil, for cut bouquets. Include it in your garden flower bunch and enjoy the unique fragrance. Bees also love this stuff!
Sweet Thai: Thai basil is of course a popular herb in many Southeast Asian cuisines, and is most regularly highlighted in a warm bowl of Vietnamese pho. This variety holds its flavor and texture through cooking more than other basils. Lovely in salads or when eaten fresh. Sweet Thai’s dark purple flowers and intoxicating scent allow it to double as an excellent addition to the flower garden. Produces well in containers also.

Beans
Royal Burgundy (Bush): Royal Burgundy has yummy purple pods that are easy to spot among green leaves. A wonderful variety to grow in cool weather and is unlikely to be challenged by bean beetles. A good container variety, as well as disease-resistant.
Trionfo Violetto (Pole): Trionfo Violetto’ translates to “purple triumph.” This Italian heirloom will win your heart, with its crisp and flavorful purple pods. While highly ornamental the plants are also highly prolific! The plants climb 6’–8′, and have prolific light amethyst flowers that bloom against green leaves that sport purple veins and stems. Similar to other purple beans, the pods magically turn green when they are cooked!

Beets
Bulls Blood: Plant one row of this beet variety for the beautiful greens, and another for the flavorful roots! ‘Bull’s Blood’ is valued for its tender, sweet, and deep red– almost plum foliage. Originally selected from a French heirloom for the darkest colored leaves, the 16″ “greens” are rich in nutrients! The roots are delicious as well, especially so, when harvested small. Use in succession planting as multiple crops are possible throughout a season.

Broccoli
Burgundy: This variety of broccoli is considered a “sprouting broccoli” since it produces one small main head, but then produces generous side shoots. Purple broccolis tend to be tender, flavorful, and full of antioxidants! ‘Burgundy’; is tolerant of a wider range of temperatures, which allows a longer harvest period. Some gardeners prefer to pinch the main floret off early on, to encourage more abundant side shoots. Also resistant to the disease, Fusarium yellows.

Cabbage
Red Acre: Jazz up cole slaw or any stir-fry with this gorgeous, deep-fuchsia cabbage! This variety has a very fresh and sweet flavor. Solid heads form early and grow on compact plants making ‘Red Acre’ an ideal choice for urban gardeners who may have limited space. Resistant to splitting as well as cabbage yellows disease. The heads store very well, in the refrigerator or a root cellar. A variety you must try!

Carrots
Cosmic Purple Carrots: While various colored carrots seem to be the new fad, they have been around for centuries. In fact, the purple carrot has been around for at least 1,000 years! While previously unpopular compared to orange carrots, purple carrots have been rediscovered, and rightfully so! Besides being high in vitamin A, purple carrots contain anthocyanins (an antioxidant) that are common in blueberries. Kids will love them!

Eggplants
Black Beauty: A beautiful nearly black vegetable with lovely, lavender blossoms pretty enough to grow in the flower garden! ‘Black Beauty’ has set the standard since 1902 for large and high-quality fruit. When harvested at its peak, the skin is tender, so no need to peel it; making it perfect for eggplant parmesan, ratatouille, and grilling!
Finger Fruit Purple: Grow fast-producing clusters of beautiful eggplants on your patio or a sunny corner of your vegetable plot! These 4-6″ fruits contain few seeds and have thin, tender skin—perfect for stir-fries and roasting. A plethora of royal purple fruits on just 22-38″ tall plants make this variety a perfect fit for containers and small gardens.
Jewel Amethyst: ‘Jewel Amethyst’ is perfect for containers, since it has a tidy habit. You will also notice its growing pattern makes harvesting a joy! The oval, purple fruits are best harvested when about 3”–4 ½” long, to stay tender. Harvest regularly from this variety to keep eggplant producing throughout the season.
Long Purple: This long, slender variety, is not usually found in grocery stores, and is a treat! Sometimes called ‘Italian Long Purple’, this prolific heirloom will bring beautiful ruby-purple color to the garden and savory goodness to the table. Enjoy in a wide variety of dishes!

Kohlrabi
Early Purple Vienna: Early Purple Vienna kohlrabi is an easy-to-grow cool weather crop that forms a distinctive dusty lilac bulb with pale flesh above ground. A beautiful plant! Peel its crunchy bulb and enjoy it raw or cooked. Leaves are also edible- eat similarly to collards, or other steamed greens. Kohlrabi is high in fiber, making it an excellent veggie for overall gut health. Kohlrabi is also high in isothiocyanates and glucosinolates, which are powerful antioxidants, thought to lower the risk of certain cancers, heart disease, and inflammation. Keeps well in the fridge.

Lettuces/ Greens
Brentwood Lettuce: This variety produces pretty burgundy lettuce leaves making for some beautiful salads! The heads produce high yields in compact spaces, and their bolt resistance allows for a long harvest. Also resistant to downy mildew, lettuce leaf aphid, and Fusarium wilt.
Dazzling Blue Kale: You will be mesmerized by the beautiful colors of this extra-cold-hardy kale. It is even more cold-tolerant than other lacinato types. The purple midrib pops against the blue-green leaves, some of which may take on more purple hues in the cool temperatures of fall. Lacinato kale is ideal for kale salads. Pick tender, baby greens for fresh salads, chips, or sauteing, in just 30 days!
Marvel of Four Seasons: Tasty and attractive, this 1800s French heirloom is also known as Merveille de Quatre Saisons. The variety has sweet and tender leaves that are chartreuse green at the base, turning to a beautiful cranberry-red, and forming a crinkly rosette! Gorgeous! Rosettes are 8″–12″ in diameter and good for large containers.
Red Russian Kale: Typically, kale gets sweeter after the first fall frost. ‘Red Russian’, on the other hand, is sweet and tender all the time. The lavender veins are part of what makes ‘Red Russian’ as attractive as it is delicious. Harvest baby greens in just 21 days!
Truchas Mini Romaine: This deep-merlot, mini-romaine is a game-changer for salads! ‘Truchas’ is compact and easy to grow in small spaces. It also creates gorgeous contrasts with green lettuce. Uniform leaves stay upright in the garden and make for easy plant cleanup. Has disease resistance to downy mildew, lettuce die-back, and lettuce mosaic virus.

Nasturtium
Black Velvet: These edible beauties add glamorous, ruby-black color to your salads and cheese plates! All parts of the flower (leaves, seeds, stems and flowers) are edible! Garnish tacos, avocado toasts, and pasta dishes with these beauties! Excellent as a companion plant to your tomatoes, and they repel several pests. Gorgeous in containers as well.
Tom Thumb Black Velvet: Tom Thumb features velvety, nearly black flowers with contrasting bright green foliage! Compact plants make this an outstanding choice for the border and containers. All parts of the flower (Leaves, seeds, stems and flowers) are edible! Add flowers to charcuterie boards, gazpachos, strewn on roasted root veggies, or create vinegar from them, for various culinary experiences!

Okra
Red Burgundy: Whether you eat okra or not, this plant is worth growing, just for the beauty of it! The pods are deep crimson edging toward maroon and are preceded by gorgeous yellow flowers that the bees love. This is the most productive red variety and will produce tender, 6″-long pods that are delicious in soup, gumbo, and stew, or deep-fried.

Shiso
Green and Red Shiso Perilla: An absolute must for herb gardens! Also called Japanese basil or the beefsteak plant, shiso’s incredible flavor can be described as a combination of cinnamon, mint, and clove with notes of cumin. A beautiful, heat- and drought-tolerant bedding plant that attracts pollinators, and is excellent for containers. This packet provides 75% green shiso and 25% red (shows up as a deep mulberry color).

Snap Pea
Sugar Magnolia: Wow, a purple snap pea that is tender and delicious! Enjoy the pretty purple blooms first, then the purple pea pods. Eat them without shelling, dipped in hummus, in a salad, or in stir-fries! Long hypertendrils (vigorous, multi-branching tendrils) support the 6′-7′ vining plants. This growing pattern creates an airy structure that helps prevent mildew. Some of these open-pollinated peas may be flecked with green, or be fully green.

Tomatillo
Purple: A purple tomatillo! Not only delicious but alluring also. The purple fruits are much sweeter than the green types and rich in antioxidants. Let the fruit remain on the plant as long as possible until the papery husks split for the best flavor and color. Tomatillos grow best in conditions similar to tomatoes (because they are related) but will handle a lot more heat. Tomatillos require cross-pollination so plant at least two plants in your garden to ensure good fruit production

Tomatoes
Black Krim: This Russian pole heirloom originated in Krymsk on the Black Sea in Russia. Baseball-sized fruits weigh 10–12 ounces and have dark reddish-brown flesh filled with a rich, slightly savory flavor. Fruit sets well in heat and is a reliable “black” tomato, producing even under adverse conditions from summer to fall. Make sure to stake or cage, as the plants can reach 6′ or more!
Cherokee Purple: Cherokee Purple’ is said to have been given to a Tennessee family by the Cherokees over 100 years ago. This dark maroon tomato has just the right balance of sweetness and even a hint of smoke, making it a winner in taste competitions. From summer into fall, you will harvest lots of 10–12 oz. tomatoes from this well-regarded heirloom variety. Make sure to stake or cage, as the plants can reach 6′ or more!
Chocolate Cherry: Chocolate Cherry tomatoes—Yum! These 1″ purplish-red, delicious tomatoes are great for snacking on and add a bit of sweetness to salads and pasta. The prolific vines bear seemingly endless trusses with 6–8 ounce fruits that will bring you back for harvest after harvest. Fruit is crack-resistant! Make sure to stake or cage.

Watermelon
Sugar Baby: The taste of summer? Watermelon! As the name suggests, ‘Sugar Baby’ is sweet, sweet, sweet! It is also small enough to easily fit in the refrigerator. This plant produces a bountiful crop of 8–10 pound deep dark emerald green orbs that have juicy red flesh.

Zucchini
Black Beauty: Black Beauty is an early maturing zucchini-type squash that features delicious deep black to green fruits with pale flesh. A very easy-to-grow bush variety that is highly productive all summer long. Enjoy grilled, sauteed, fresh, in soups, or zucchini bread!