By Katherine Placzek

Recently, I was able to go to Scotland for vacation. While I was there, I was blown away by the plant life, of course, but I also learned so many new ways to garden! In this blog, I want to share my main takeaways with you!

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1. Plant Small

I was able to briefly chat with someone who worked at McLaren’s Nurseries in Lugton, Scotland. This man told me that most of their plants are grown in smaller sizes because Scotland’s conditions are very harsh. They deal with a lot of wind, adverse weather, and salt from the ocean. With these conditions in mind, they think younger and smaller plants have a better chance of successfully transplanting and thriving. Many plants have severe transplant shock if they are larger. This made me think of what I have discovered on my own. Starting plants by seed or in smaller sizes in our harsh region has proven incredibly prosperous for me. I believe the premise is the same here in Colorado!  

1. Plant Wildflowers In Your Yard & Even In The City Roundabouts

The Scots are pollinator warriors! They interseed their lawns and roundabouts with wildflower seeds. They will mow a neat border, following the perimeter of the curb or the boundaries of their yard. BUT they leave the interior tall with poppies, scabiosa, daisies, other small wildflowers, and grass seed heads. It feels like a bit of the countryside has been transported into the heart of the city!  I was happy to see bees and butterflies, as well as birds, enjoying the small habitat.  What a beautiful way to encourage a little bit of wilderness into your yard, while keeping it tidy.

1. Honor The Weeds

Scotland’s national flower is the thistle. The thistle. You read that right. We Americans have a vendetta against weeds- I just sold some Thistledown (a broadleaf chemical control for Thistle and its cousins) this morning. We do not see how beneficial weeds can be. The Scots have a different approach. Thistle is everywhere! In yards. By the sea. In the pasture. In the Highlands. Growing in a crack by a restaurant. It is honored in all forms of artwork in Scotland. It is found on postcards, in small artist studios as their main muse, below the statue of William Wallace in Sterling, and even on the handle of the sword of state held in Edinburgh Castle (gorgeous- btw). And it is not just thistle. They allow and sometimes even encourage the brambles- the wild blackberries. Brambles are by a stone wall overlooking the ocean. They skirt the perimeter of a park. They creep along the edges of a city forest. They climb over a rock wall where a couple of tourists are eating lunch. The brambles are even sometimes featured in local alcohol with the phrase, “sun-kissed bramble fruit.”  All of these little corners where weeds are allowed to thrive remind us that we are part of nature, despite how much we try to separate ourselves. Pollinators and other wildlife benefit from these little habitats, also!  

1. Garden Even If The Plant Will Not Stay Perfect

I was able to visit many seaside towns in Scotland. While some shops and gardeners had given up on planting in the sea-sprayed side of town, many had not. They still planted window boxes or patio pots with begonias, impatiens, salvia, petunias, and the like. Many of these plants are not resistant to the salt in the seaside wind or spray from the ocean. There were pots that were protected from this, and they looked great, but others got the full brunt of the sea and looked very ragged or brown. It reminded me of Colorado. While we could throw up our hands and say that we live in the land of hail, deer, squirrels, and grasshoppers, and that  “this is no place to be a gardner” we do not. We replant our tomatoes after hail. We install semi-permanent cages around tender trees and shrubs from the nibbling deer. Gardeners will garden, no matter the conditions. We believe in plants and we believe in beauty. We plant even if we know that the planter full of beautiful flowers will not stay perfect forever.

1. Plant A Hedge

Hedges were the first fences. They border the road and soften sound pollution in Scotland. Hedges also create boundaries along property lines and offer privacy. I think that more hedges should be planted here in Colorado. While hedges sometimes are monocultures of one plant or shrub, they can also be very diverse. I saw Scottish hedges with cotoneasters, privets, various plants from the prunus family, shrub roses, beeches, etc. While many of these hedges were manicured, they had incredible diversity. Again, a variety of pollinators and other wildlife could find food and shelter in these hedges. If you are not into the “traditional hedge” that is trimmed into straight lines, feel free to check out Floret’s hedgerow guide. I think it is an excellent “new world” take on an “old world” idea. You can find that guide here: Click me!

Although building out a hedgerow can be expensive, if you go back to the first point (#1- Plant small), you might have a much better success rate and a less expensive ticket at the end of your hedgerow project. Some nurseries will even ship small seedlings if you want to start very small.

While Octorado Native Plants Nursery is only Wholesale, more nurseries are heading this way! Read more here!

1. Plant In A Pot

Many people live in cities in Scotland, and you would expect those who live in small apartments or places without a yard to forgo gardening altogether. Not at all in Scotland! Window boxes and patio pots adorned nearly every block. Some may have been neglected or battered due to sea salt, but plant life was abundant and encouraged even in apartment living. Gardening really is for everyone!

1. Develop Around What Already Exists

While Europe is known for its broad-scale deforestation in its historical past, we did see several old trees or portions of forests left intact. We saw an ancient yew tree that was the size of a building! This was in the middle of the city, Stirling. It was sitting close to a parking lot and was in the middle of the hubbub.  This made me realize that city developers had left the tree. They purposely designed the parking lot around the tree.  When development occurs in the States, oftentimes, we scrape the entire lot and then re-landscape with smaller trees and shrubs, denuding the lot of any remnants of what was there originally. I personally think this is sad. Think of the stories that you are removing from the land to put in a new shopping mall or a suburb. That yew tree had to be at least a century old. What a life to preserve and honor! I am glad someone decided to leave the yew tree.

1. Make Plants Part Of Your Weekly Ritual

We were able to visit the city of Glasgow’s Botanical Gardens on a Sunday. While I know botanical gardens are not typically free in the States, these botanical gardens were free! It was packed. Small and large clusters of people walked the paths, exploring the grounds or the glass greenhouses, and lounged in the open spaces. Many of these people were locals, and this is how they had chosen to spend their leisure time. We also saw Scots recreating in the rural spaces-hiking, playing by the beach, running into the ocean, and taking picnics. It seemed that Sundays, especially when other things might be closed, were a time to reconnect with nature and enjoy the simpler things in life with loved ones. I think implementing a ritual or a regular habit of connecting with plants or nature is something Coloradoans could get behind!

1. Water Is A Resource-Protect It

Several times we saw advertisements on bus stops or buses that had the message: “Water is always worth saving. Help protect your precious resource.” Scots are very proud of their water, and even brag about how it tastes. It really does taste very clean and refreshing!  Scots receive their drinking water from rainfall. There are towns that are experiencing a lack of water due to recent dry spells, and have had to have water trucked in. This sentiment of protecting water can be applied to Colorado. Coloradoans receive much of our drinking water from snowmelt. We are also dependent on precipitation for our water needs. In dry years, watering restrictions are put in place. While this year was relatively wet, there have been decades of dry years along the Front Range in our recent past.  I think we all should be mindful and proud of our water, like the Scots! One way to protect our water is to be aware of how we impact our watershed- and those downstream of us. Here is a throwback blog on how to protect our watershed while gardening, click the link here.

Travel is part of a gardener’s education. But you do not have to go abroad to learn about how other gardeners approach plants or garden resources. The public library has a wealth of information on various gardening techniques that are from other cultures or other regions. I also think it is valid to check out other gardens in Colorado. Paonia and Berthoud both have independently claimed the title of “Garden Spot of Colorado.” Visit a high altitude garden in Aspen- Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Or see a world-renowned crevice garden in Arvada -APEX Crevice Garden. When you travel, ask gardeners what they do in their garden. What works for them might be your new way of gardening too!  

Gardening is for everyone, and that includes those who want a tree! How can this be? Not everyone has the space for these kinds of big plants. Not so fast-trees also include bonsai and indoor citrus too! Whether you want something decorative, fruiting, or just plain cool, we will help you pick and care for a tree that will thrive!

What To Look For: Location, Location, Location!

Trees are surprisingly delicate plants. Selecting the right plant, planting it at the optimal time, and choosing the ideal location is crucial for a tree to thrive. We’ll first go over site selection. Trees need space both above and below ground. Their canopies need to spread alongside their roots so they can establish themselves easily and live a long time. Keep in mind a tree’s full size before purchasing. If you’re lacking this space, a dwarf tree variety or even a shrub would be better.

Drainage also is important. Most soil in Colorado retains moisture poorly, however there can be areas with poor drainage in any environment. Picking a drought-tolerant tree would be best for soil that poorly retains moisture, the very best being a native tree. For a tree in a wet area pick one that enjoys damp soil, just don’t forget to water during the drier months!

Lastly, sunlight exposure is essential for trees (and generally all plants). Generally, trees need full sun but some don’t like bright hot light and prefer partial shade. Most trees we carry in our nursery will have little information packets attached to their branches about light requirements. If they don’t, our Ricksters are always happy to help!

What To Look For: Healthy Trees Please!

Now we get to the fun part: picking out the tree! Picking a healthy tree will benefit your wallet and the health of your garden or yard. An unhealthy or sickly tree can transmit disease and decay to other plants, so knowing what to look for while shopping is essential for everyone! Tree leaves shouldn’t be wilting, have discolored bark, odd spots, or oddly colored leaves. You shouldn’t buy a tree that has non-beneficial insects, like aphids or mealy bugs, on its leaves, branches, or bark. Trees should have evenly spaced branches and a central branch that acts as the main trunk. The Colorado State Forest Service suggests, “Tree foliage and branches should be distributed on the upper 2/3 of the tree.” Study the tree roots too. Are roots circling, appear pot bound or are suffocating the stem and trunk of the tree? These are all bad signs and this tree shouldn’t be purchased.

Why Natives?

Some trees will do better in Colorado than others. Native trees in particular are hardier and built for our drastic climate. Generally, they will also need less maintenance, like less watering, pruning, and insect control. Natives will thrive in Colorado hardiness zones, though there are always exceptions. A great place to check out native trees and shrubs is at Colorado State University Extension. Alongside pictures, each tab is filled with information about the plant’s preferred elevation, habitat, and more. Click the link to learn more: https://csfs.colostate.edu/colorado-trees/colorados-major-tree-species/

Planting

Trees have specificities when it comes to planting. When you choose to purchase a tree from our nursery, we’ll typically send you home with one of our tree-planting guides. It’s also available on our website, link located here for ease: https://www.ricksgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Ricks-Tree-Shrub-Planting-Guide.pdf .

We want to remind you to NOT FERTILIZE your tree for the first year! This can damage and even kill a tree. Trees are getting established in their new home and this is a stressful time. Applying fertilizer adds unnecessary stress in the first year. 

Whether you choose a flowering crab apple or go the native route and pick a tree that easily establishes in our area, finding the right fit tree is what we should all strive for. A chosen tree should be picked to thrive in your yard’s microclimate. Once established, trees return the favor. Providing shade, habitats for animals and birds, cleaning the air and water, and limiting rain runoff are just a few of the reasons a tree can benefit the community. Likewise, trees increase property value and cut noise pollution! Trees are legacy gifts to the environment and to future generations. Whatever your reason is for choosing a tree we’re happy to help you do it right. Happy gardening!

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Getting Home & Garden Ready For Sale

Despite mortgage interest rates continuing to climb in the past several months, in this military base-saturated city, we continue to have a thriving real estate market.  If you are prepping a house for sale, know that it does not have to be scary! Historically most house sales occur in the spring, so the later winter months are the perfect time to begin thinking about how to improve your curb appeal and get a “to-do” list fleshed out in time for your spring sale. Sprucing up your yard is especially important.

The first thing you should do is take your blinders off. You probably have lived at your house for some time.  Pretend you are pulling up to the house for the first time or walk by your house like you are new to the neighborhood. Take notes. Like an artist, you will come back to this step multiple times, building a masterpiece!

• Do you have a couple of ways your eye can “travel” through the landscape? If not, how can you add interest in multiple areas of your yard?
• What are the immediate eye sores? Clean those up or remove them immediately.
• What is the highlight of your home and yard? How can you further accent it?
• What trees or shrubs need to be trimmed?
• Are there holes in the landscape? Can a tree, shrub, ornamental grasses, several perennials, or a boulder fill in the gaps?

The second thing that is helpful to do right now is a general yard cleanup. Even if your yard is ho-hum, an easy way to elevate the place is to do some general yard maintenance.

• Clean pathways/ sidewalks by sweeping dirt/ debris or pulling weeds
• Rake leaves off your lawn. Leaves can be mulched into your lawn also, by running a lawn mower over them.
• Remove any weeds. Pulling is preferred especially now, when they are most likely dead.  Feel free to put a natural pre-emergent down, like corn gluten. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating in the spring.
• Pruning should be done in the spring, but take note of which trees or shrubs should be addressed before your sale. 
• Consider if outdoor statement containers should be purchased, so you can plant vibrant flowers ahead of putting your home on the market.
• Add a fresh layer of mulch or gravel to refresh any landscaping areas. Do not forget to put a weed pre-emergent down under the mulch and on top of the new mulch, to discourage weed growth. There is nothing more aggravating than completing a clean landscaping job to have weeds pop up in the spring. You can also consider laying down weed barrier fabric under the mulch.
• It should also be mentioned that you should remove any yard art that is specific to your “aesthetic.” You want potential buyers to imagine their own lives when doing a home walkthrough.  Pack the garden gnomes away for when you move into your new place!

Next, you will want to address outdoor lighting. If you plan on selling in the spring, you will be hitting the market before it is light in the evenings. You will want to ensure that you make your house feel welcoming as people come to showings after getting off of work.

• Highlight your entrance. This is the most important area to highlight.  If you are concerned about light pollution, make sure the light casts downward, instead of out or upward. If you are further interested in reducing light pollution at your home, check out this resource on what light fixtures are best: Click here!
• Other areas to consider lighting include pathways, the address number on your house, and any architecture or plants you want to illuminate.

Finally, consider your plant life. You will not do any planting until spring, but this is a wonderful time to find plants that will fit your needs. In the first step, you identified if your eye traveled through the house/garden lay out, if there were any highlights, and if there were holes in the landscape. As you choose plants to fit these roles, consider the following:

• How much water does it require? Will you be able to ensure it gets the water it needs until you sell? Will potential buyers be turned off by the amount of water that you use? Consider more xeric or water-wise options, if this is the case. 
• How much maintenance will it require? For example, many younger buyers are no longer interested in lawns, due to the regular, watering, fertilization, aeration, and mowing that a lawn requires.
• If you have deer or rabbits in the neighborhood, consider choosing species that are resistant to their munching, so all of your plants look good for your closing!
• Resources that are helpful when selecting native plants or water-wise plants are detailed below:
  • Plant Select is a brand of plants that we sell. They have an excellent variety of plants and detailed descriptions of each plant. They specialize in plants that are, “…unique, smart, and sustainable plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.” Check them out here: Click here!
  • High Country Gardens is another gem of information. They “…offer a diverse and ever-expanding selection of plants for the unique challenges of Western gardens.” Use their perennial filter to drill down to find those difficult-to-find plants that are deer-resistant, in partial shade, water-wise, and good for your zone. Check them out here: Click here!
  • Finally, a local resource. Please check out the water-wise demonstration gardens that the Colorado Springs Utilities have. They have two different locations listed below. All of the plants are labeled, which is helpful when you find a plant you have fallen in love with! It is helpful to go visit through the four seasons, so you see how foliage and plants change throughout the year. Check them out here: Click here!

There you have it! Good luck with getting your property ready for sale!

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New School Fall Gardening Stretegies

By Katherine Placzek

With fall approaching, many of you are getting ready to put your garden beds and other portions of the landscape to bed. With a more eco-friendly mindset, we would like to suggest a couple of tweaks to your typical routine.

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Old school: Raking and bagging leaves, tossing them out for the trash.

New school: Rake leaves from below trees, and use them as mulch around your perennials, shrubs, or on top of your vegetable garden beds. You can also run these over with a lawn mower to mulch them into your grass. 

Why: Organic matter, including yard waste, is the most prolific item in United States landfills.  Consequently, this unsustainable practice directly contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Conversely, organic material returned to the soil reduces your environmental impact while providing a useful garden resource. These local sources of organic material and nutrition (from your own yard’s leaves) will feed and insulate your yard all winter long! Decomposing leaf matter enriches the soil, adding carbon and nitrogen to the soil, while plants “sleep.” Leaves also create safe places for native bees and other pollinators. Did you know that almost three-fourths of Colorado’s native bees nest and overwinter underground? Tip: Deeply water the leaf litter in after it has been placed. This creates a wet decomposing mat that will not blow away as easily.

If you have excess leaves that you are not going to be using, please feel free to bring your bagged leaves by our nursery gate (located at 600 N. 18th St. Colorado Springs, CO 80904). This is a community pile that other members come to gather for their own gardening usage.

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Old School: Trim any perennials and remove them before the first snow.

New School: Leave all of your woody stalks, leaf matter, and ornamental grasses all winter long!

Why: This allows for winter interest and provides shelter for any hibernating insects. This is especially true for native plants that act as habitat for many native and beneficial insects. Larger life forms, including birds and mammals, will also benefit from grass seed heads left standing, and other plants that provide shelter in the harshest months. If this is unsightly for you, trim your plants, but leave the stems and other leaf matter on the ground to help create shelter throughout the winter. When soil temperature has reached 50 degrees Fahrenheit it’s the preferred time to begin trimming these perennials in the spring, after many insects have completed their wintering cycle.

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Old School: Let the winter snows water your outdoor plants.

New School: Water trees, shrubs, and perennials on nice days throughout the winter.

Why: Unfortunately Colorado Springs does not get enough reliable winter moisture to overwinter many plants. This is especially true for newer plants that do not have an established root system yet. Many trees and shrubs, even those that are well-established, should continue to be watered on warm winter days from October through March. When it gets up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, pull out a hose or dust off your watering can and soak up some of those winter rays, yourself, while you water. Make sure you unhook any hoses after use, as temperatures can cause freezing in the hose bib and other hardware. 

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Old School: Say goodbye to gardening until spring.

New School: Fall and winter sow, including vegetable and perennial flower seeds.

Why: Many annual vegetables and perennial flowers have a natural cycle where they drop seeds or fruit in the fall. Mimic nature and plant some of your own seeds in the fall to see what comes up earlier and hardier in the spring! In the vegetable garden, this especially works for cold hardy greens. Think spinach, lettuce, arugula, radicchio, etc. For perennial flowers, like wildflowers, it is recommended to put these seeds down in the fall, as many of our native flowers require a cold stratification period. While many people may set up sections in their freezer and fridge for cold stratification processes, direct seeding in the fall eliminates the juggling of space in your fridge/ freezer. Let the ice cream stay where it is!

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Old School: Wait until spring to amend any of your garden beds.

New School: Amend your garden beds in the fall so you can plant right away in the spring.

Why: Fall is a good time to test your soil so you know how to amend your beds. Our soils typically fall in the basic pH range here in the greater Colorado Springs area. This can impact how readily available nutrients are to our plants. Do your research and get your soil properly in shape for your spring! Remember that you can also amend with what nature provides; leaves, manure, compost, and other organic matter. These sources do not have a precise N-P-K (macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), nor spelled out micronutrients (calcium, magnesium, iron, etc) so it is recommended to test your soil in the spring again to see how your soil has changed due to any unregulated organic material. We offer pH and N-P-K, testing in-store, but the CSU extension office also offers a wide range of soil tests.

Soil, Water, & Plant Testing Lab

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Now that you know these new school techniques, you might just try other new gardening techniques in the growing season. I know, I know- I am getting ahead of myself!  Happy gardening!

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Coco Coir vs Peat Moss

By Katherine Placzek

Dear reader, 

This article began initially with a straightforward trajectory. I was going to lay out why using peat moss in soil mixes is environmentally harmful and that we all should make the switch to using coco coir. But as I continued my research, I found it was not that simple and the subject required lots of continued digging to find accurate information. Instead, I am going to try to educate you on both substrates to the best of my ability.   

Peat Moss:

Why is it used: 

Peat moss has an incredible water retention capability- holding 20 times its weight in water.  It also has a small but not insignificant amount of nutrients. You can pot a plant directly in peat moss and it will grow due to these nutrients. It is light and fluffy, used by many gardeners to lighten existing soils. It is highly acidic if not amended with lime, and shrubs like hydrangeas or blueberries can successfully be planted into peat.  It also can be used as a pea/bean inoculant. It was not until the 1970s that peat became commonplace as a planting substrate for plant people. 

How is it harvested/manufactured: 

Peat bogs have centuries (possibly more) worth of plants and decomposing peat/sphagnum peat growing and compacting in a dynamic cycle and ecosystem. It is estimated that peat bogs contain more than 44% of all the Earth’s soil carbon and thus are considered a carbon sink (where carbon is stored and absorbed from the atmosphere). Harvesting practices vary in different bogs and countries. The majority of the peat sold in the United States is harvested in Canada. 95% of all peat in Canada is harvested in partnership with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA). The CSPMA has strict regulations that they follow, and are involved in many ecological restorations, as well as scientific research behind peat bogs, and the living organisms that use the bogs as habitat.  Many of their practices publicize that they attempt to reduce harm, prevent overharvesting, protect habitats, and replant as part of their aim toward sustainability. While this sounds good, in 2021, it was reported that peat harvesting released 2.1 megatonnes of carbon dioxide into the environment. That’s the equivalent emissions of the annual emissions of five gas-fired power plants. Critics also point out that rehabilitated peat bogs are unable to become a carbon-accumulating ecosystem (or a carbon sink) until roughly 20 years after harvesting. Harvesting in other countries is not regulated and they are likely not as concerned with any harm associated with their practices. All harvesting is mechanical due to utilizing fossil fuels. The UK has banned all peat sales for personal gardens beginning in 2024. 

Factors to consider: 

1. Peat bogs house diverse and intricate habitats for all sorts of living organisms. Harvesting, regardless of practice, disrupts this environment.
2. Peat bogs are considered carbon sinks- absorbing carbon from the atmosphere. Harvesting peat releases carbon into the atmosphere, causing concern that this practice contributes to climate change.
3. Fossil fuels are used in the harvesting process and are used in the shipping of this product to garden centers and other plant/ home improvement stores.

Coco Coir:

Why is it used: 

Coco Coir also has a high water retention rate, retaining 8-9 times its weight in water. It does not have any innate nutrients or pH implications, so it is a neutral starting point as a substrate. Coco coir is a waste product from all other food-grade products made from the meat/ milk of the coconut. Before the 1980s, millions of tons of coco coir were left to decompose in large piles, often taking close to 20 years to decompose.  Now there is a market for this “waste product,” as a soil substrate.

How is it harvested/manufactured: 

Many coconut plantations are based in the poorest countries, Sri Lanka, India, Vietnam, the Philippines, and more recently, in Central and South America and even Mexico. Coconut plantations are often monocultures that reduce natural biodiversity and cause displacement of living organisms. Coconut trees produce a lot of coconuts but do so at the cost of soil degradation. The coconut hull first is soaked in water (freshwater or saltwater) for a long time to break down the fibers on the hull. This process is called retting. The retting process generates water pollution. Among the major organic pollutants are pectin, fat, tannin, toxic polyphenols, and several types of bacteria including salmonella.  While scientists are experimenting with treatment options, there does not seem to be a broad-scale accepted solution at this time. This wastewater is often returned to the local community’s water supply or the ocean. Then, either the coconut hulls can be highly processed through mechanical mastication, or beaten and broken down further by hand.  This manual process creates a lot of dust, and workers are typically not provided any PPE (Personal Protective Equipment).  Reports indicate an increase in respiratory illnesses in communities with coco coir processing. Many of the following processes, if mechanized, are achieved with fossil fuels. There are currently no regulations on the industry’s standards. I also found conflicting information on whether a second rinse with chemicals is necessary, so that is an additional set of pollution outputs to consider. In general, it’s harder to find reputable sources explicitly sharing information about coco coir. This makes me concerned about the transparency of the industry, as well as possible offenses that are intentionally hidden from the public’s knowledge.

Factors to consider:

1. Many coconut plantations are monocultures, created by destroying native habitats for diverse organisms, thus causing soil degradation.
2. Pollution of the environment due to wastewater from retting processes.
3. The lack of regulations concerning this product allows for humanitarian abuses to occur, including health hazards for workers and the surrounding community.
4. Fossil fuels are used in portions of the manufacturing process and in transporting this product to your local garden center.

I think continuing to use coco coir or peat moss warrants extra research. Dig into the companies that you are supporting. Do they have certifications, and third-party ratings that indicate that they care about their staff’s health and wellbeing? The environment and the community they impact? Their carbon footprint? Other points that you are passionate about?

All of this makes me consider, there have been gardeners and plants people before me who did not have access to these substrates. What did they use before? Compost. Manure. Leaves. Green manures/ cover crops. Aged forest products (humus). Straw. None of these probably have the water retention that peat moss or coco coir boast, but they all have higher nutrition, which means prior plants people did not have to fertilize in the same manner that we do when we utilize a peat or coco coir base. Many of these local inputs are also free. All of this is interesting and will lead to further research on my part.

The most honest conclusion that I can make is that, when we are removed from the product we are buying, we also become naïve of the ultimate cost and any negative impacts of the product. Perhaps, the point here is to grow plants that are acclimated to our growing habitat (for instance, native plants do not need peat or coco coir to thrive), or to build soil from what nature provides in our local vicinity. While this is easy to say, it is harder to do. I think this new knowledge is powerful, though. We can always experiment and try new things in hopes of finding replacements that have a lesser negative impact. Good luck with your own decisions ahead of you! 

Soils that we carry that do not contain peat moss or coco coir:

Back to Earth-

• Composted Cotton Burrs (Acidified and Non-acidified)

EKO-

• Clay Buster
• Top Dressing

Happy Frog-

• Soil Conditioner

Rocky Mountain Soils-

• Top Soil
• Humus
• Compost Cow
• Tree and Shrub

Yard Care-

• Soil Pep

Note: We also carry a variety of only coco coir or only peat-based soils, if you decide you prefer one over the other. 

Resources to utilize in your own research:

I think that Gardener Scott (A gardener in CO, who has an excellent library of YouTube videos on vegetable gardening) has a comprehensive video on the pros and cons of both of these substrates.

The link to the website that Gardener Scott references: https://www.gardenmyths.com/coir-ecofriendly-substitute-peat-moss/

Canada’s National Observer on the carbon footprint of peat harvesting: https://www.nationalobserver.com/2023/07/07/news/canadas-carbon-storing-peat-digs-climate-dilemma#:~:text=According%20to%20Environment%20Canada%2C%20about,of%20growth%20within%20those%20sites.

21 report on carbon sinks and greenhouse sources in Canada: https://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2023/eccc/En81-4-2021-1-eng.pdf

A Q&A with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA):

Q&A With the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association

The CSPMA’s website (includes the history of peat, how their manufacturers harvest peat, industry reports, and more) https://peatmoss.com/

Generalized information on how coco coir is made: https://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Coir.html

Another source on how coir is made: https://coir.com/utility/how-to-make-coconut-coir-the-manufacturing-process/

A study linking coco coir to impaired respiratory function: https://www.thepharmajournal.com/archives/2023/vol12issue3/PartAR/12-3-455-522.pdf

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