Preventing Water Loss
We understand it’s not easy to garden this year-especially with how expensive watering can be. Trust us, it’s no easy feat to maintain watering our plants either. But we don’t think you should have to give up gardening entirely. Knowing and understanding water loss will help prevent it, saving you money and protecting the environment! Gardening is for everyone and water costs shouldn’t stop you.
Reduce Evaporation
Colorado is notoriously dry. Combined with a hot summer, it creates treacherous environments for gardens. “Thanks to capillary action throughout the soil, which draws water up from below,” says Rhonda Massingham Hart, author of “The Dirt Cheap Green Thumb,” “evaporation can deplete water from deep in the ground.” If you don’t want water to leave your soil, mulch over the top. Gorilla hair maintains water the best and as a perk clumps, so it won’t blow away either. Another good mulch is straw! And if you lay gravel on top, which is also an excellent mulch, it will keep the straw down for you. Gravel mulch however retains heat. In the dog days of summer, this can lead to trouble. If you’re interested in free mulch and willing to work up a sweat, check out the cities free mulch pile: Click here!
Likewise, consider putting down a drip system or soaker-style sprinkler head. Sprinklers that disperse through the air lose more water than these close-contact irrigation systems. If you don’t have the funds for an irrigation system consider purchasing or making olla pots! This technique hails from ancient Northern Africa & China and involves an unglazed terra cotta pot used for underground irrigation. Due to the porous nature of the unglazed terra cotta, the water leaches slowly into the soil. And because the olla put is partially buried or almost totally buried underground, water is less likely to evaporate. To make your own gather terra cotta pots (they cannot be glazed), plug the drainage holes, and place a lid over the top of it. To learn how to make your own olla pot, watch this short video: Click here!
You can also use plastic containers, like old milk jugs, to create olla pots. Wash out milk containers then puncture three holes on the bottom with a hammer and nail, knife, or other cutting tool. These holes shouldn’t be large. Bury the container up to the neck and remove the cap. Fill with water, screw the cap back on, and viola! Plastic olla pot! Keep an eye on when to refill your olla pot and tailor the size of the container to the plant. This too goes for terra cotta olla pots.
Amendments & Native Plants
You can add amendments to your soil to retain and even attract water. Ever heard of humus? Humus is essentially composted plant and animal matter, yet it’s different from typical compost. Our brand of humus we sell is made only with plant product and is one of thew few vegan style compost we provide. Dark in color and rich in nutrients, humus is also excellent at conserving water. Its presence within your soil lessens water percolation and keeps it “in reach” for plants. Likewise, it also slowly releases nitrogen, sulfur, and other essential amendments to plants over time. If you’d like to learn more about humus, read this article and scroll to pages 212-3: Click here!
On hot summer days, plants sweat like us. “One large shade tree can transpire several hundred gallons of water through its leaves,” remarks Rhonda Massignham Hart. While this tidbit of information seems contrary to the information above about reducing water evaporation, misting plants on especially hot days will likewise retain water. This shouldn’t be done every day however, reserve misting for only the hottest and driest of summer days. Native plants are less likely to transpire as non-native because they are adapted to Colorado’s semi-arid climate. If you’re tight on cash for water yet are looking to plant something new, always always ALWAYS choose native. Not only will these plants be saving you money but also you’ll also be helping the environment by returning native plants to the ecosystem! Don’t be surprised if your plants attract more beneficial bugs, birds, and even larger wildlife. Here at Rick’s we’re especially focused on trying to increase our native perennial selection for this reason. If you want certain qualities of native plants, here is a great way to select what you want before shopping at Ricks: Click here!
Conserving water doesn’t have to be scary or expensive. With these hacks, you’re sure to save on your water bill. Here at Rick’s, we’re excited to share more gardening tricks and tips. No one should ever have to give up gardening due to money or to the environment. Gardening is for everyone!
2025 Garden To-Do’s Recap 1#
Here are the gardening references we shared over the past month. We’re big fans of Colorado State University extension, so you’ll see us referencing them all the time. However, we also have some written articles just for you under our blog! There will be more gardening references for the year, so stay tuned!
Relative Houseplant Care/Rescuing House Plants:
Listen…shhhhh…if you listen closely, you can hear that neglected plant in the corner crying for help. You did not mean to cause harm. Whether you left for your holiday travels in a rush and failed to give your plants some extra TLC before you left, or you do not know the plant’s needs, the stress is equally killing you. You are at the point of not knowing what to do to make your plants happy again. No worries! We got you on our blog!
Starting Seeds Indoors:
We know it seems early, but the sooner you start your seeds the better. For tomato and pepper plants it’s recommended you start them outside once soil temperatures reach 50 degrees at night. This however doesn’t work well for Colorado’s short growing season. To get the most produce out of your vegetables we recommend starting seeds indoors now and in February! All you need is a seed-starting soil mix and a grow kit!
Seed Starting Troubles:
Have you been waiting for your seeds to pop up and still nothing? No matter what you do, your seedlings perish. There are multiple factors as to why your seeds may not be sprouting. Seed age, crusting soil, and temperature fluctuation are just a few. In the article below by CSU Extension, scientists review why your seeds may not thrive as they should. Fear not, solutions are provided to fix issues and to get those seeds growing! Happy gardening!
Winter Watering:
If air temperature is above 40 degrees it’s time to winter water! Read more about winter watering rules below!
https://www.csu.org/blog/winter-watering-tips
Do’s & Dont’s of Transplanting:
Want to get bang for your buck when starting transplants? Learn the dos and don’ts of growing transplants by copying and pasting the link below! And if you need containers we wanted to remind you we have a free drop off/pick up bin behind the store in our parking lot-perfect for starting seeds or other transplants (once they’re clean that is)!
Garden Planning:
Now’s a great time to start garden planning for spring! Remember to consider space when mapping your beds and companion plants! The links below will lead to more information about early garden planning and companion plants!
General Info:
Companion Plants:
General Onion Care:
Intimidated by growing and planting onions? How about storage, before and after planting and growing these flavorful bulbs? And what the heck does daylight have to do with all of it?
Among the hundreds of questions involving onions you may have, we’ve contacted the experts for their advice. Learn the essentials for onion care from Dixondale Farms!
Growing Potatoes at Home:
Want to try growing potatoes this season in your home garden? We have a link for you! We recommend reading Colorado State University article on the subject!
https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/potatoes-in-the-home-garden-7-617
Spring Bulb Care:
Intimidated by growing spring bulbs? Don’t be with Colorado State Extensions help! Learn how to keep beautiful spring bulbs, corms, and roots alive by reading the article below or in our story/highlights. The article provides everything from choosing a perfect planting spot to planting depth for certain favorites Happy gardening!
https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/spring-planted-bulbs-corms-and-roots-7-411
Rick’s Tree Planting Guide:
We know many of you are familiar with our Tree Planting Guide, so here it is again! This guide is perfect for those interested in buying a tree or about to plant a new one. We also sell mulch, root stimulators, and mycorrhizae for tree planting! Happy gardening!
https://www.ricksgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Ricks-Tree-Shrub-Planting-Guide.pdf
On Crop Failure
By Emma Seibert
A few nursery Ricksters had been growing tomatoes in our greenhouses this winter as an experiment. In hopes of helping gardeners sample certain varieties before they commit to growing, nursery crew member Emma was dedicated to growing tomatoes and selling them as produce over the winter. Accidents happen to the best of us, however, including garden centers. Though crop failure is tragic, it’s not a sign to stop growing. Rickster Emma will talk you through her recent experience with crop failure…
A regular part of my job, especially in the summertime, is helping customers troubleshoot the issues they are seeing with their vegetable gardens and flower beds. Sometimes customers come in and I am able to recommend different caregiving techniques that can help bring their plants back to full health. Other times, I have the unfortunate job of bearing the news that the plant in question is either beyond saving, or even more heart wrenching, that it is dead. And that is what I wanted to talk about today. Dead plants are a rather sensitive topic for most growing enthusiasts; whether you’re a farmer and the health of your crop determines your livelihood or you’re just beginning your houseplant collection, crop failure is painful.
On August 26th, 2024, I seeded 32 tomatoes to plant them in large farm troughs in one of our greenhouses, with the intention of sharing the organic, local greenhouse-grown fruit with you all during the cold winter months. We wanted to provide our community with locally grown, ‘out of season’ produce that was flavorful and that you all could feel good about purchasing, knowing exactly where it was grown.
On January 13th, 2025, the tomato plants were nearly touching the roof of the greenhouse. They were blossoming and nearly every plant was fruiting. The green globes that hung from the tender stems had a yellow hue, indicating that ripening was mere days away. The stripes on the Purple Bumblebee tomatoes were starting to darken and the folds in the skin on the Sub-Arctic Plenty were beginning to smooth out, firming up the skin and giving it a glossy appearance. The first harvest date was so close I could nearly taste the tang of the Sweetie cherry tomatoes.
Then that same evening, the heater in the greenhouse wouldn’t turn on, despite the thermostat readings dropping. For some reason the thermostat and the unit heater were not communicating, but we couldn’t figure out why. As I got in my car to go home that night, I tried to remain hopeful that something would kick on, that someone would be able to figure out what was wrong in the next 20 minutes before the store closed for the night; all while watching the temperature readings in my car drop below 32 degrees.
The morning of January 14th, I hustled to the greenhouse as quickly as I could. Before I could even open the door, I knew it was done. There was frost coating the inside of the greenhouse walls; it had gotten cold enough inside for the condensation from the previous day’s healthy plant transpiration to freeze, indicating to me that every tomato plant inside must be frozen too. I went inside anyway and saw what I already knew to be true; every beautiful plant was frozen in time. The leaves were slightly wilted but maintained their vibrant green color, iced over in the moment of their last breath. It turns out that the safety fuse in the greenhouse heater blew out the previous day, preventing the heater from turning on despite the thermostat telling it to do so. We were unable to replace it in time for that night’s low of 10 degrees. As the daytime temperatures rose, the cell walls thawed and tomato plants flopped in defeat, their fruit turning to mush in my hands.
I cried, really hard. For a long time. I am not telling you this story to make you sad or say woe is me and my little crop of tomatoes. I am telling you to try to be of comfort; crop failure happens and hurts at every stage. I am telling you because I want you to know that yes, crop failure is a fact of life in the horticulture world. And also, the pain associated with such loss is a fact of that life too. So if you come in to show me your plant that is struggling and I tell you that it is dead, know that I understand that pain too. And I will do my best to help you pivot your crop, like I did with mine.
After the sore task of digging up all of the spent tomato plants, I went back and seeded some other, more cold-tolerant crops. And soon, the greenhouse will be a miniature forest again, but this time of kale and spinach, lettuce, and Swiss chard. I am not perfect, and neither are you, and neither is anyone no matter the extent of their experience. We all have to pivot sometimes and just know that the pivot can be the seed for new success.
Getting Home & Garden Ready For Sale
Despite mortgage interest rates continuing to climb in the past several months, in this military base-saturated city, we continue to have a thriving real estate market. If you are prepping a house for sale, know that it does not have to be scary! Historically most house sales occur in the spring, so the later winter months are the perfect time to begin thinking about how to improve your curb appeal and get a “to-do” list fleshed out in time for your spring sale. Sprucing up your yard is especially important.
The first thing you should do is take your blinders off. You probably have lived at your house for some time. Pretend you are pulling up to the house for the first time or walk by your house like you are new to the neighborhood. Take notes. Like an artist, you will come back to this step multiple times, building a masterpiece!
- Do you have a couple of ways your eye can “travel” through the landscape? If not, how can you add interest in multiple areas of your yard?
- What are the immediate eye sores? Clean those up or remove them immediately.
- What is the highlight of your home and yard? How can you further accent it?
- What trees or shrubs need to be trimmed?
- Are there holes in the landscape? Can a tree, shrub, ornamental grasses, several perennials, or a boulder fill in the gaps?
The second thing that is helpful to do right now is a general yard cleanup. Even if your yard is ho-hum, an easy way to elevate the place is to do some general yard maintenance.
- Clean pathways/ sidewalks by sweeping dirt/ debris or pulling weeds
- Rake leaves off your lawn. Leaves can be mulched into your lawn also, by running a lawn mower over them.
- Remove any weeds. Pulling is preferred especially now, when they are most likely dead. Feel free to put a natural pre-emergent down, like corn gluten. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating in the spring.
- Pruning should be done in the spring, but take note of which trees or shrubs should be addressed before your sale.
- Consider if outdoor statement containers should be purchased, so you can plant vibrant flowers ahead of putting your home on the market.
- Add a fresh layer of mulch or gravel to refresh any landscaping areas. Do not forget to put a weed pre-emergent down under the mulch and on top of the new mulch, to discourage weed growth. There is nothing more aggravating than completing a clean landscaping job to have weeds pop up in the spring. You can also consider laying down weed barrier fabric under the mulch.
- It should also be mentioned that you should remove any yard art that is specific to your “aesthetic.” You want potential buyers to imagine their own lives when doing a home walkthrough. Pack the garden gnomes away for when you move into your new place!
Next, you will want to address outdoor lighting. If you plan on selling in the spring, you will be hitting the market before it is light in the evenings. You will want to ensure that you make your house feel welcoming as people come to showings after getting off of work.
- Highlight your entrance. This is the most important area to highlight. If you are concerned about light pollution, make sure the light casts downward, instead of out or upward. If you are further interested in reducing light pollution at your home, check out this resource on what light fixtures are best: Click here!
- Other areas to consider lighting include pathways, the address number on your house, and any architecture or plants you want to illuminate.
Finally, consider your plant life. You will not do any planting until spring, but this is a wonderful time to find plants that will fit your needs. In the first step, you identified if your eye traveled through the house/garden lay out, if there were any highlights, and if there were holes in the landscape. As you choose plants to fit these roles, consider the following:
- How much water does it require? Will you be able to ensure it gets the water it needs until you sell? Will potential buyers be turned off by the amount of water that you use? Consider more xeric or water-wise options, if this is the case.
- How much maintenance will it require? For example, many younger buyers are no longer interested in lawns, due to the regular, watering, fertilization, aeration, and mowing that a lawn requires.
- If you have deer or rabbits in the neighborhood, consider choosing species that are resistant to their munching, so all of your plants look good for your closing!
- Resources that are helpful when selecting native plants or water-wise plants are detailed below:
- Plant Select is a brand of plants that we sell. They have an excellent variety of plants and detailed descriptions of each plant. They specialize in plants that are, “…unique, smart, and sustainable plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region.” Check them out here: Click here!
- High Country Gardens is another gem of information. They “…offer a diverse and ever-expanding selection of plants for the unique challenges of Western gardens.” Use their perennial filter to drill down to find those difficult-to-find plants that are deer-resistant, in partial shade, water-wise, and good for your zone. Check them out here: Click here!
- Finally, a local resource. Please check out the water-wise demonstration gardens that the Colorado Springs Utilities have. They have two different locations listed below. All of the plants are labeled, which is helpful when you find a plant you have fallen in love with! It is helpful to go visit through the four seasons, so you see how foliage and plants change throughout the year. Check them out here: Click here!
There you have it! Good luck with getting your property ready for sale!
Coco Coir vs Peat Moss
By Katherine Placzek
Dear reader,
This article began initially with a straightforward trajectory. I was going to lay out why using peat moss in soil mixes is environmentally harmful and that we all should make the switch to using coco coir. But as I continued my research, I found it was not that simple and the subject required lots of continued digging to find accurate information. Instead, I am going to try to educate you on both substrates to the best of my ability.
Peat Moss:
Why is it used:
Peat moss has an incredible water retention capability- holding 20 times its weight in water. It also has a small but not insignificant amount of nutrients. You can pot a plant directly in peat moss and it will grow due to these nutrients. It is light and fluffy, used by many gardeners to lighten existing soils. It is highly acidic if not amended with lime, and shrubs like hydrangeas or blueberries can successfully be planted into peat. It also can be used as a pea/bean inoculant. It was not until the 1970s that peat became commonplace as a planting substrate for plant people.
How is it harvested/manufactured:
Peat bogs have centuries (possibly more) worth of plants and decomposing peat/sphagnum peat growing and compacting in a dynamic cycle and ecosystem. It is estimated that peat bogs contain more than 44% of all the Earth’s soil carbon and thus are considered a carbon sink (where carbon is stored and absorbed from the atmosphere). Harvesting practices vary in different bogs and countries. The majority of the peat sold in the United States is harvested in Canada. 95% of all peat in Canada is harvested in partnership with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA). The CSPMA has strict regulations that they follow, and are involved in many ecological restorations, as well as scientific research behind peat bogs, and the living organisms that use the bogs as habitat. Many of their practices publicize that they attempt to reduce harm, prevent overharvesting, protect habitats, and replant as part of their aim toward sustainability. While this sounds good, in 2021, it was reported that peat harvesting released 2.1 megatonnes of carbon dioxide into the environment. That’s the equivalent emissions of the annual emissions of five gas-fired power plants. Critics also point out that rehabilitated peat bogs are unable to become a carbon-accumulating ecosystem (or a carbon sink) until roughly 20 years after harvesting. Harvesting in other countries is not regulated and they are likely not as concerned with any harm associated with their practices. All harvesting is mechanical due to utilizing fossil fuels. The UK has banned all peat sales for personal gardens beginning in 2024.
Factors to consider:
- Peat bogs house diverse and intricate habitats for all sorts of living organisms. Harvesting, regardless of practice, disrupts this environment.
- Peat bogs are considered carbon sinks- absorbing carbon from the atmosphere. Harvesting peat releases carbon into the atmosphere, causing concern that this practice contributes to climate change.
- Fossil fuels are used in the harvesting process and are used in the shipping of this product to garden centers and other plant/ home improvement stores.
Coco Coir:
Why is it used:
Coco Coir also has a high water retention rate, retaining 8-9 times its weight in water. It does not have any innate nutrients or pH implications, so it is a neutral starting point as a substrate. Coco coir is a waste product from all other food-grade products made from the meat/ milk of the coconut. Before the 1980s, millions of tons of coco coir were left to decompose in large piles, often taking close to 20 years to decompose. Now there is a market for this “waste product,” as a soil substrate.
How is it harvested/manufactured:
Many coconut plantations are based in the poorest countries, Sri Lanka, India, Vietnam, the Philippines, and more recently, in Central and South America and even Mexico. Coconut plantations are often monocultures that reduce natural biodiversity and cause displacement of living organisms. Coconut trees produce a lot of coconuts but do so at the cost of soil degradation. The coconut hull first is soaked in water (freshwater or saltwater) for a long time to break down the fibers on the hull. This process is called retting. The retting process generates water pollution. Among the major organic pollutants are pectin, fat, tannin, toxic polyphenols, and several types of bacteria including salmonella. While scientists are experimenting with treatment options, there does not seem to be a broad-scale accepted solution at this time. This wastewater is often returned to the local community’s water supply or the ocean. Then, either the coconut hulls can be highly processed through mechanical mastication, or beaten and broken down further by hand. This manual process creates a lot of dust, and workers are typically not provided any PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). Reports indicate an increase in respiratory illnesses in communities with coco coir processing. Many of the following processes, if mechanized, are achieved with fossil fuels. There are currently no regulations on the industry’s standards. I also found conflicting information on whether a second rinse with chemicals is necessary, so that is an additional set of pollution outputs to consider. In general, it’s harder to find reputable sources explicitly sharing information about coco coir. This makes me concerned about the transparency of the industry, as well as possible offenses that are intentionally hidden from the public’s knowledge.
Factors to consider:
- Many coconut plantations are monocultures, created by destroying native habitats for diverse organisms, thus causing soil degradation.
- Pollution of the environment due to wastewater from retting processes.
- The lack of regulations concerning this product allows for humanitarian abuses to occur, including health hazards for workers and the surrounding community.
- Fossil fuels are used in portions of the manufacturing process and in transporting this product to your local garden center.
I think continuing to use coco coir or peat moss warrants extra research. Dig into the companies that you are supporting. Do they have certifications, and third-party ratings that indicate that they care about their staff’s health and wellbeing? The environment and the community they impact? Their carbon footprint? Other points that you are passionate about?
All of this makes me consider, there have been gardeners and plants people before me who did not have access to these substrates. What did they use before? Compost. Manure. Leaves. Green manures/ cover crops. Aged forest products (humus). Straw. None of these probably have the water retention that peat moss or coco coir boast, but they all have higher nutrition, which means prior plants people did not have to fertilize in the same manner that we do when we utilize a peat or coco coir base. Many of these local inputs are also free. All of this is interesting and will lead to further research on my part.
The most honest conclusion that I can make is that, when we are removed from the product we are buying, we also become naïve of the ultimate cost and any negative impacts of the product. Perhaps, the point here is to grow plants that are acclimated to our growing habitat (for instance, native plants do not need peat or coco coir to thrive), or to build soil from what nature provides in our local vicinity. While this is easy to say, it is harder to do. I think this new knowledge is powerful, though. We can always experiment and try new things in hopes of finding replacements that have a lesser negative impact. Good luck with your own decisions ahead of you!
Soils that we carry that do not contain peat moss or coco coir:
Back to Earth-
- Composted Cotton Burrs (Acidified and Non-acidified)
EKO-
- Clay Buster
- Top Dressing
Happy Frog-
- Soil Conditioner
Rocky Mountain Soils-
- Top Soil
- Humus
- Compost Cow
- Tree and Shrub
Yard Care-
- Soil Pep
Note: We also carry a variety of only coco coir or only peat-based soils, if you decide you prefer one over the other.
Resources to utilize in your own research:
I think that Gardener Scott (A gardener in CO, who has an excellent library of YouTube videos on vegetable gardening) has a comprehensive video on the pros and cons of both of these substrates.
The link to the website that Gardener Scott references: https://www.gardenmyths.com/coir-ecofriendly-substitute-peat-moss/
Canada’s National Observer on the carbon footprint of peat harvesting: https://www.nationalobserver.com/2023/07/07/news/canadas-carbon-storing-peat-digs-climate-dilemma#:~:text=According%20to%20Environment%20Canada%2C%20about,of%20growth%20within%20those%20sites.
21 report on carbon sinks and greenhouse sources in Canada: https://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2023/eccc/En81-4-2021-1-eng.pdf
A Q&A with the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA):
The CSPMA’s website (includes the history of peat, how their manufacturers harvest peat, industry reports, and more) https://peatmoss.com/
Generalized information on how coco coir is made: https://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Coir.html
Another source on how coir is made: https://coir.com/utility/how-to-make-coconut-coir-the-manufacturing-process/
A study linking coco coir to impaired respiratory function: https://www.thepharmajournal.com/archives/2023/vol12issue3/PartAR/12-3-455-522.pdf
Blossoms on Your Plate
Are you ready to elevate your gardening game to a whole new level of deliciousness? Well, we’re about to dive into the vibrant world of edible flowers that will not only make your garden pop but also your plate! Many of them are easy to grow, forgiving of rookie mistakes, and will reward you with an explosion of colors and flavors.
Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus): These deep burgundy to buttery yellow blooms have a peppery kick, perfect as a spicy twist to salads, tacos, and avocado toasts. Bonus: They’re easy to grow, thriving in poor soil and other neglect. These flowers are high in vitamin C. The entire plant is edible- so try out the lily pad-like leaves also! Deer resistant.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Often called “poor man’s saffron,” the golden petals of calendula add a subtle saffron flavor to rice dishes and soups. They’re sun lovers and can tough it out in the Rocky Mountain soil. This flower is also known for its skin-healing properties, consider making a toner with calendula flowers. Deer are typically not a fan of these flowers.
Pansies (Viola tricolor): These adorable flowers come in an array of colors and have a slightly sweet, grassy taste. Scatter them over desserts after dipping them in water and then sugar for a delicate but sweet touch. Or freeze them in ice cubes for fancy drinks. Pansies are cold-hardy and can withstand our unpredictable mountain weather. We had a pot of pansies survive the entire winter, even when temperatures dipped below 20 degrees!
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Known for its calming aroma, lavender adds a delicate floral flavor to desserts, teas, and even cocktails. It thrives in well-drained soil, making it a great match for rocky gardens. We have several varieties that will survive year-round in our nursery area. Look for varieties such as Munstead, Hidot Blue, and Phenomenal. Due to the fragrance of these flowers, deer typically leave them alone.
Rose (Rosa spp.): Beyond being a symbol of romance, roses can be used in various culinary creations. Make tea with their dried petals, infuse honey with their fragrance, or toss the petals into desserts. The rose hips that are produced in the fall are also edible and high in vitamin C. You can make tea from the rosehips as well. We have several varieties of roses, some more bred for their blooms, others are cultivated to be hardy for our mountainous climate.
Borage (Borago officinalis): With its brilliant blue flowers, borage adds a refreshing cucumber taste to salads, drinks, and desserts. The best part? Borage is a self-seeding annual, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. The pollinators will also feast on these blooms! Deer typically avoid this plant.
Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla): Beyond being a bedtime tea, chamomile flowers can be used in salads or infused into syrups that go well in cocktails, over ice cream, or on pancakes. These sun-loving plants will thrive in our bright sun. Deer tend to avoid this plant due to its fragrance.
Dianthus (Dianthus spp.): Also known as pinks, or sometimes recognized as carnations, these flowers have a mild clove-like flavor. Add them to fruit salads, and desserts, or dry them and add them to various spice blends (za’atar, is a great example). Dianthus are hardy perennials, returning year after year. They are also deer-resistant.
Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Hibiscus flowers make a delightful and tropical addition to beverages, jams, and desserts. We carry gorgeous hardy hibiscus that will winter as a perennial shrub. Hibiscus also has high levels of vitamin C and is an excellent herb for overall health.
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.): Despite their fleeting beauty, daylilies are edible and offer a slightly sweet flavor. Stuff the blossoms with a soft cheese, or add them to stir-fries. Do your research on whether you have a daylily, before digging into a meal. Not all species of lilies are edible. These hardy perennials are a reliable choice in our climate.
Elderflower (Sambucus nigra): Fragrant elderflowers can be used to make refreshing beverages like elderflower cordial or add a subtle floral note to desserts. Elderflowers come from elderberry bushes, so you will also be able to eat elderberries if the birds don’t beat you to it! These shrubs are well-suited for the mountain environment, making them a great choice for your garden.
So, whether you’re a seasoned horticulturist or a budding green thumb, dive into the world of edible flowers and turn your garden into a culinary masterpiece. After all, why just stop and smell the roses when you can toss them in a dish too? Happy gardening and bon appétit!
Bare Root Fruit Trees
What are bare root trees?
Bare root trees are harvested from their growing beds in the late fall, and the soil is removed from their roots. They are kept in cold storage over the winter, and planted before they break dormancy in the spring.
What are the advantages of planting bare root trees?
Improved Tree Health
Bare root trees are not grown in a container. This eliminates the industry-wide problems of circling and girdling roots that develop in container-grown stock, a major threat to even healthy-looking plants. Also, since bare root trees are planted early in the spring before they leaf out, the trees get a head start on developing strong root systems in the native soil before they start producing leaves, flowers, and fruit.
Light Weight & Reduced Environmental Impact
Bare root trees are much lighter when shipped. This saves on freight and fuel and makes them easier to maneuver while planting.
More Cost Effective
Shipping bare root trees is much less expensive, and that savings is passed directly to the customer. Our trees will be comparable in size to a #5 container tree, but for half the price! (All trees will be a minimum of 5/8th inch caliper.)
We are excited to offer bare root fruit trees at Rick’s this spring! We are working hard to bring you the best fruit trees possible.
Excellent Quality
The bare root fruit trees we are selling will be of superior quality! We chose to source these trees specifically from growers who supply professional orchardists. Van Well Nursery is based in Washington state and works with several orchards in the Palisade, Colorado area. They have an excellent reputation among professional growers, and we’re excited to offer that level of quality in Colorado Springs! We have consulted with Van Well to bring you the best in bare root fruit trees for our local climate.
Exceptional Rootstock
Since their seed is not true to type, fruit trees are produced from cuttings. Many species of apples, pears, and plums do not root easily from cuttings, so they are grafted onto rootstock grown specifically for this purpose, a practice dating back over 2,000 years.
When purchasing any fruit tree, it is important to inquire about the quality of the rootstock. For our bare root trees, all apples are grafted onto EMLA 7 rootstock. This rootstock is semi-dwarfing, meaning each variety will grow about 50-60% smaller than typical, which is perfect for backyard orchards. This rootstock was chosen for its cold hardiness and extreme resistance to fireblight. The plums are grafted onto a peach seedling rootstock.
Interesting Varieties
This year, Rick’s will have eight kinds of apples and two kinds of plums to choose from. We will have heritage apples like Macoun and Yellow Newton, and some new arrivals like Ambrosia and Gale Gala. We even have an apple variety that’s used for cider, Yarlington Mill, which arose from a chance seedling discovered in 1898! The plum varieties are both European plums and are very cold hardy.
It should be noted that all apples need another apple (or fruit-bearing crabapple) of a different variety to cross-pollinate. Both types of plums that we carry are semi self-fruitful, but they will bear a heavier crop with a different plum cultivar nearby to cross-pollinate. The two plum varieties we will be carrying will cross-pollinate with each other very nicely. For fruit trees to cross-pollinate, they should be planted within 100 feet of each other.
Cost and Availability
Each bare root tree will be $39.99 and will be sold on a first come, first served basis.
The trees will be arriving in early March, weather permitting. We will continue to sell the bare root trees until they start to break bud, most likely in early April.
If you would like to be notified when the bare root trees become available, please email us at info@ricksgarden.com or call the store at (719) 632-8491 to be put on our notification list.
Timing and Handling
Timing is important when purchasing and planting bare root fruit trees. Bare root trees can only be planted in the early spring. Bare root trees that are planted after they leaf out have a much lower survival rate.
Proper handling is crucial for bare root stock. Roots should never be allowed to dry out – even five minutes of sun exposure on a warm day can do life-threatening damage to the tree. When you purchase a bare root tree from Rick’s, you will be provided with a burlap sack and wet mulch (or other means) to protect the roots during transportation.
The tree should be planted as soon as you get home from the nursery. If you will not be able to plant the tree immediately, please talk to our nursery staff so they can advise you on proper storage procedures.
Planting
Planting bare root trees is very similar to planting trees that have been grown in containers. The most important thing is to not plant too deep; you should have a structural root within the first one to two inches of soil. Amend soil to a maximum ratio of one part compost to four parts native soil. Cover the planting area with three inches of mulch, taking care to not contact the trunk. Staking may be necessary depending on root spread, soil type, and wind exposure.
Protection
Young trees that are small in diameter are the perfect size for deer to rub their antlers on. If deer graze in your neighborhood, cage trees immediately after planting. Trees left unprotected for even one night can be terminally damaged by deer.
For additional tree planting resources, please visit:
Tree & Shrub Planting Guide by Rick’s Garden Center:
The Science of Planting Trees by CSU Extension: https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/633.pdf
Fall Perennial Planting
Planting in the fall can save you a lot of money while also giving plants a jump start next spring! Plants that establish strong roots during the fall will come back bigger and stronger in the spring time.
However, fall planting requires careful consideration and attention to detail from the gardener. The trick is to give fall plantings a little extra care to help them get established before the really cold weather sets in.
Here are four things you can do to help your plants get established:
Soil Inoculant
At the time of planting, be sure to use an inoculant specifically formulated for perennials, trees and shrubs. These products will help the plant to start establishing roots before all of the foliage dies back. We recommend using an inoculant over a root stimulator this late in the season so you can avoid giving any extra nitrogen to the plant before it goes in to dormancy.
Mulch
Mulch helps to retain soil moisture while also protecting roots from sudden changes in temperature. We recommend using 3″ of a good quality mulch to keep plants protected. Make sure that mulch does not contact the bark of woody perennials.
Protect Plants from Early Freezes
Keep an eye on the weather and cover the plants when the temperatures dip below freezing throughout September and October. This is most important for perennials. Trees do not need to be blanketed, but bark wrap should be used on all young trees to protect the trunks from splitting during our freezing and thawing cycles. When covering perennials, use heavy fabric or plastic and prop it up so that it is close to, but does not touch the plant (Plastic that touches the plant during a freeze can actually do more damage.) Be sure the covering goes all the way to the ground and cover the edges with soil or mulch so that it will trap heat from the soil.
Water
To support adequate root growth, plants will need to be watered regularly in the fall. Keep your soil evenly moist, but not soggy, through the fall time. Remember to monitor your plants regularly! A plant that crisps up due to lack of water in the fall time is not likely to survive the winter. When the plant goes dormant, they will require less frequent watering, but will also need to be watered throughout the winter. Remember that desiccation is the result of cold weather plus dry soil. For more details on winter watering, visit our Blog.